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Northeast Face 
Sunset Glacier 

Sunset Glacier 

   
Type:  Alpine, 3000'
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Brad Washburn
Season: April - September
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: A.P.Lee on Mar 7, 2013

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heading towards the southeast ridge

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Follow the Sunset Glacier to its upper basin and take the shorter southwesterly fork (watch for crevasses) to the small col below the peak's south ridge. From here, climb a steep snow slope to the north and cross a small basin to the east (beware of big cracks later in the summer). Gain the southeast ridge by climbing a short headwall (the routes crux). The slope here rolls to anywhere from 35-55 degrees (some may want to pitch out this short section because of a large bergschrund). Once on the ridge, go uphill to the summit, beware of cornices to the northeast and avalanche danger to the south. The route is essentially a corkscrew up the mountain.

Protection 

Basic glacier travel set up (piolet, crampons, pickets, etc...).


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