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This has fun fingers to fist climbing on a face crack and in a corner to work your way out a short roof and clip the chains.
This is the obvious, slabby corner directly [right] of the bolted black streak (I'll Be Black
). It requires the same "4th" class scramble to the ledge to belay as I'll Be Black
Standard rack of cams to 3" and stoppers will suffice, a #4 is optional.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2011
Note that this climb is right of I'll Be Black, not left of it.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Jul 5, 2013
The chains at the top were a little off-putting- long studs sticking way out of the rock, a stack of washers below and above each chain, and the chains themselves looked like they came out of a hardware store rather than from a supplier of climbing or safety equipment. The whole setup had a distinctly home-made look to it, not very confidence inspiring. My partner and I found ourselves wondering how long the anchors would last before they corroded with moisture working its way in between all those washers.
Aug 6, 2015
The anchors definitely look like old bolts and washers bought from a hardware store. I have used them multiple times but feel that they need to get replaced, because Sunset Crack and I'll be Black are classics on great rock.