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Sunset Alley

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Abyss, The 
Alcove, The 
Alley, The 
Blank Cave, The 
Hop Garden 

Sunset Alley Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 37.13387, -113.84426 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,902
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hyrum j. C on Sep 10, 2014
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Jackie climbing one of the slabbier routes on the ...

Description 

Great canyon with an awesome view of ivins and red mountain. Great variety in difficulty (ranging from 5.8 to 5.14) The climbing here is great for climbers of all skill levels. On the right side of the canyon is some great grey limestone with coral tufts on it in various patches. first route on the right is a 5.8 then second is around 10b third around 10c/d and some harder ones and then some more tens. great quality climbs all!! A short hike along this wall and you will come to a small scramble that leads up into a slot canyon that is the abyss wall which is full of 5.10's. or keep following the wall past a bunch of climbs that look to be in the 11's range up to hop garden which is composed of some slabby looking stuff and an arete and then an overhanging area.
The left side of the canyon is a cave with a headwall which looks pretty intense. Probably a lot of 13's and 14's.

How To Get There 

To get there go west on Sunset Blvrd till you leave town and it becomes the old highway. Keep going till you pass the Gunlock turnoff and then continue for 6.6 miles and take a right (just after you pass the 10 mile post) onto a decent dirtroad. then go 2.4 miles and take a right on the dirt road thats there (there should be a cairn on this turn) it looks small but it is actually just fine for a car. It goes for maybe half a mile and then you come to a parking spot, the trail heading north is easy to spot, hike along it for about 15 mins and you will get to the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.2 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',10],['5.11',9],['5.12',13],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunset Alley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunset Alley:
Perverted Bunny   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   The Alcove
Fun   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 45'   The Alcove
Shits and Giggles   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Alley
Old Pine   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   The Alley
Grasshopper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   Hop Garden
Family Affair   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   The Alley
Sondance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   The Alley
Super Fun   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   The Alcove
Hop Rising   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   Hop Garden
Pocket Line   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   The Alcove
Hop Henge   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Hop Garden
Ball Bustin' Fun   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   The Alcove
Sunset Lanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Alley
Hopsickle   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Hop Garden
Finally Legal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   The Blank Cave
Three Pump Chump   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 100'   The Alley
It's a Good Life    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 100'   The Alley
Frick   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   The Alley
Shell Shocked   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 90'   The Alley
Fun Pig   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Blank Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunset Alley

Featured Route For Sunset Alley
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on shell shocked. Thanks for the picture gordon...

Shell Shocked 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Utah : Saint George : ... : The Alley
Starts with a slab and goes vertical and crimpy and right into the crux then chills a bit then takes a bit of figuring at the top. the rock on this climb is a bit sharper than the other climbs. so if this is at the top of your grade for climbing you might come away with a few cuts or scrapes. still an awesome line though....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Sunset Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber on "fun pig" 13a in the sun on...
A climber on "fun pig" 13a in the sun on...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view looking south from inside the blank cave
The view looking south from inside the blank cave

Comments on Sunset Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Feb 15, 2015
The turnoff from old highway 89 is right after mile marker 10. The dirt road climbs fairly steeply and then flattens out at the top of the hill, which is where several spur roads appear. A cairn marks the correct right turn onto the discrete ATV sized road (ok for cars) that descends through trees east down to the small parking area. A great singletrack trail can be easily spotted here that continues the descent down the wash to the walls. 15 min or less to the cave from the parking. All the distances mentioned by hyrum are spot on.
By John Ehrig
From: Saint George, UT
Nov 10, 2016
Please Help - Lost Shoes at Sunset Alley. Please text me at 925-216-1552 if you found a pair of size 34.5 Women's Mythos shoes at Sunset alley. Thanks!
By Ryan Weller
From: Long Beach, CA
Nov 27, 2016
No sun reaches this crag in November as stated here and the Limestone Bible. The bible also has numerous inaccuracies on route length and number of bolts. The directions and maps are really rough. It does seem to include many inside jokes and personal insults that offer no help to the buyer. But a great crag, tons of good rock.

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