||Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'
|Original: ||WI4 [details]|
|Page Views: ||638|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Feb 12, 2004|
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Sunscreen WI4, Ouray, CO.
This is a pleasant, sun-bathed route off the 2nd rock prow downstream from the lower bridge of the Ouray Ice Park. It is often a good landmark to find other routes in the area. Just downstream is the upper Scottish Gully, By Gully. Just upstream are Tic Tac & then Stonefree. Sunscream's anchors can be shared for Dizzy with the Vision, Mighty Aphrodite, & Dizzy Curtain. So you have to be play nice & share or your toys will get you!
Wander up easier, fat ice L or R of a big boulder near the base. Follow ice up into a tight groove with forces you L. Gain a large ledge. Rest & switch gears. Now be delicate and dance up a small hollow pillar (crux) until you can move R onto easier terrain. Nice route when it is cold. Soaks up the rays. Nice mix of techniques on this climb. 80ft.
Note ice can crash down from the routes to the L like Popstar & Dr. Delam.
Screws + a hand-sized cam?
Eric Chrisman. Photographer: Simon Edwards.