|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||FFA: Jeff Gruenberg, Jack Mileski, 1986|
|Submitted By:||Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007|
|Comments on Sunrise Book||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 21, 2008
|Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!).|
By Scotty Nelson
Aug 5, 2008
|I thought the topo was right on. P3 is 9+ if you are used to that style of climbing (handcrack in the back of a flare). We linked the last two pitches together. The bombay chimney is so much fun!|
By Monica Jones
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 19, 2010
|My boyfriend and I both tried to free this one and neither of us got it. We hiked up canyon and started on the 5.9 pitch that puts you underneath the 11+ that goes into the 12-. The 11+ pitch was very serious with long runouts over marginal gear. I backed off it but my boyfriend got it on his second try. We both traded off on the 12- which has tons of fixed nuts so it's more like a sport climb with a really hard boulder problem at the top. Gorgeous line though.|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
|There are routes that go free. And there are routes that are great free climbing. IMHO, the crux pitch falls into the first category. Tape is nice for the second pitch. Third pitch is not to be missed. Out there!|
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|5.10 A1 for weaklings like me. Not to be missed though. The free sections (most of route) are great.|
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 21, 2013
By far some of the most beautiful rock on this wall. What a great line. The 9+ topout pitch is outstanding!!!!! What a surprise finish.
Link the crux pitch with the perfect hands corner pitch above for a super 190 foot cruiser. You do the hard moves low down and then enjoy the 100 feet of perfect hands in a corner. No real rope drag on this plumb-line pitch.
Dont know that I would link the last two pitches, potential for rope drag through the chimney is daunting. Plus, the belay inside the bottom of the chimney is shady with a nice stance.
The 5.12 crux is doable though I fell at the last move before it backs off in difficulty. I think I could have stuck it if I had just tried a little harder. Oh well.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 3, 2015
Stellar climbing on clean rock. Excellent option if you want a shorter day at the Perch.
Agree with Aaron's suggestion on linking P2 & P3 - this worked well for us.
Gear - we took doubles up to #3 camalot, with triples in the blue-red alien sized cams. I'd use the same rack if climbing this again - it allowed us to link P2 & P3 comfortably.
P1 - Climbs nicer than it looks; delicate face moves with decent gear.
P2 - If you link P2 & P3, I'd suggest a couple large stoppers for the initial pro, on long slings (starts out as 5.8). 5.12 Crux protects well with small stoppers and small cams. You will then ideally have hand sized cams left for P3.
P3 - Great 5.10 crack climbing! If you like Indian Creek, you will enjoy this section.
P4 - More great 5.10 crack climbing! Relatively short pitch but steep and strenuous. Again, agree with Aaron - I wouldn't link P4 and P5, as you might not have the required gear left over, and can face some potential heinous rope drag. Besides, the chimney belay is comfy and protected from the wind.
P5 - So much fun!!! Red and green camalots protect the moves out of the chimney well. We back-cleaned some gear for fear of it walking back into the crack with the rope pushing on it.
Enjoy this beauty. If you are a solid 5.10 crack climber and don't mind a bit of aiding on the 5.12 section - I'd suggest getting on this!
Oct 3, 2016
|As of October 2015, many of the fixed nuts on the 2nd pitch were missing. It's been a while, but I recall there being only 1 at the very top and another at the bottom of the 5.12/aid section. What a classic route though!|