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By Tony Grenko
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 4, 2014
I woke up this morning to 3 personal emails from Las Cruces local climbers (all 30 plus year veterans) thanking me for posting the old names of some of the climbs on La Cueva. All three of these climbers wondered why younger climbers would choose to rename climbs that clearly had been climbed and had bolts, pins, and fixed gear on them (Wes Thompson and I did "meanderfest" the year before Arron Named it after seeing 3 new bolts and a belay station on it.... All three climbers asked that I take the time to properly name the routes and give credit to the first accent parties.
I guess the age old questions of respect and community apply here:
1) Under what conditions does someone, seeing gear on a route, choose to rename it and/or claim it as a first ascent?
2) Does the "style the route was put up in" apply anymore? Several of the first ascents on La Cueva have now has several bolts added. For example Pat Gioannini and I put up the "hive route in 1982 without any bolt in EBs. It now has 7 bolts 5 feet left of a perfectly good protectable crack.....and a new name. We also put up "The Bulge" with one bolt; it now has three, and we called the route "Teenage Wasteland".
I have been up Bugaboo spire, Castleton spire, and half dome. It never occurred to me to rename any of the routes I did on those.... Have I missed recent developments in climbing culture?