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BETA PHOTO: Sunny Butterflies
An interesting and somewhat serious route with ground fall potential. It is more of a highball V2 boulder problem and a short 5.8 trad climb separated by a ledge.
Climb diagonally left through slopers to the single bolt. Move up into underclings then climb to the ledge on good edges. Aside from the lone bolt there are few if any options to protect this lower section. A fall on the last moves would result in cratering from 25-30 feet up, but the holds are good. After gaining the ledge plug a small cam behind a flake, mantle the flake then move into the corner/ roof, climb the crack to the top. Belay on the large ledge. Either walk off right or continue to the other routes above.
Just left of the access gully for the pillar, look for the single bolt and roof crack
1 bolt, a small cam for the ledge (yellow TCU), a few hand sized pieces for the upper corner and crack. A horizontal takes small to medium cams and nuts for the anchor.