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Neat Rock
Routes Sorted
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Pinnacle Toprope TR 
Pinnacle Toprope (South face) TR 
Standard Direct finish T 
Standard Route T 
Sunny Butterflies T 
Tweedle Dee 
Tweedle Dum 

Sunny Butterflies 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V2+ Font: 5+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V2+ Font: 5+ PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Dan Bachen on Feb 7, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Sunny Butterflies

Description 

An interesting and somewhat serious route with ground fall potential. It is more of a highball V2 boulder problem and a short 5.8 trad climb separated by a ledge.

Climb diagonally left through slopers to the single bolt. Move up into underclings then climb to the ledge on good edges. Aside from the lone bolt there are few if any options to protect this lower section. A fall on the last moves would result in cratering from 25-30 feet up, but the holds are good. After gaining the ledge plug a small cam behind a flake, mantle the flake then move into the corner/ roof, climb the crack to the top. Belay on the large ledge. Either walk off right or continue to the other routes above.

Location 

Just left of the access gully for the pillar, look for the single bolt and roof crack

Protection 

1 bolt, a small cam for the ledge (yellow TCU), a few hand sized pieces for the upper corner and crack. A horizontal takes small to medium cams and nuts for the anchor.


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