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6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
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12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Indigo Billy T,TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Law and Gospel T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Unnamed Short route T,TR 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Sunken Pillar 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,502
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Crag under Balanced Rock in Devils Lake Wisconsin


Sunken Pillar is directly behind the Oak Tree between Der Glotz and Red Pulpit. Start out on either crack (left is a little better quality). Use blocky hand and foot holds to climb up. Once the cracks diverge follow either crack up. The upper half of the left crack is really nice for side-pull moves.

To set up the Top Rope for this climb the biners should be to the northwest of the Balanced Rock.


Standard Rack

Photos of Sunken Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Smith works his way up the friendly twin crack...
Ben Smith works his way up the friendly twin crack...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear and Trembling (9), Red Pulpit (8), Aahrg (7),...
BETA PHOTO: Fear and Trembling (9), Red Pulpit (8), Aahrg (7),...
Rock Climbing Photo: Soloing

Comments on Sunken Pillar Add Comment
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a really good beginner's lead. The pro is good before, during and after the crux. The crux is short and very slightly overhung but stemming and using both cracks makes it a breeze. Takes big gear and hexes very well.
By Jeff Christbaum
From: Muskego, WI
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

As a new leader this was a great first lead. The climbing isn't difficult, the holds and stances are great for placing gear, and the route will take just about any gear you've got. I used a combination of nuts, cams, and hexes. I think I was able to place about a dozen pieces on my first ascent. More could have been placed but I ran out of slings. The largest piece placed was a #4 C4. Tons of spaces for small cams, too.
By Gokul
Jul 14, 2014

For a fun variation stick to only one of the two cracks (the other one is off). Bumps up the grade by a couple points.
By Kurt Carlson
Apr 3, 2016

Sunken Pillar is the route right under balanced rock it is a super fun top rope climb for beginners. Once you get past the crux which is about one third of the way up it shouldn't be as hard. It was a really fun climb and Devils Lake is a really cool place. I definitely recommend this climb and I also recommend going to Devils Lake in Wisconsin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik Carlson climbing up the Sunken Pillar route r...
Erik Carlson climbing up the Sunken Pillar route right under Balanced Rock in Devils Lake, Wisconsin.
By John Wanner
Jun 15, 2016

There are 3 variations to the climb. I've been climbing at Devil's Lake since the 1970's and there are many climbs there that are as close as the two single crack variations. If you use both cracks, 5.5 is probably a reasonable grade. If you try just the right crack and stay out of the left, it's probably closer to a 5.6. Staying in the left crack only gives about a 5.7 move or two-it's definitely quite a bit harder than using both cracks. Setting one top rope (or leading one variation-excellent pro in the cracks-and then using a TR) you get 3 interesting and quite different, moderate climbs for the price of one.

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