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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1984
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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If you're looking for an alternate 1st pitch to Frog's Head, this IS the line.

It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).

Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head and/or Maria, so you may have to negotiate for space.

Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.

A second pitch wanders up looser rock to the GT ledge, again just right of Frog's Head. You can also finish with P2 of Maria, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria).

Descent: rappel from chains.


10 feet to the right of Frog's Head.


A standard rack. Yellow Camalot for the crux moves down low is helpful.

Comments on Sundown Add Comment
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Apr 20, 2010

The crux is quite a thoughtful then committing move, with gear below your feet, and seemed pretty hard-8 to me.

We continued up the second pitch of Kama Sutra, which goes straight up from the double-bolt rappel anchor mid-cliff. It seemed very PG, and very 5.6++, especially right at the top ... I would not put a 5.6 leader on it, to be sure. Not sure I ever want to lead it, myself!
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 25, 2011

I've done the second pitch of Kama Sutra, and Julie's impressions seem accurate to me. The protection is good, but there is no distinct line, the rock quality in a few spots is mediocre, there's a fair amount of dirt from runoff, and it's harder than 5.6.
By Phredward
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 29, 2016

It's also possible to start on the front of the block making use of the arete on the right.

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