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Sundown Ledge

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Alcohol Wall 
Boulder Loop Trail Boulders 
Call of the Wild Cliff 
Far Cliff, The 
Gill's Groove Crag 
Lost Horizon  
Main Cliff 
Outback Cliff 
Parking Lot Boulders 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sundown Ledge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.00669, -71.23158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,581
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 19, 2012  with updates from Ron Birk
Forecast:
This Afternoon

25° | 11°
Saturday

19° | 6°
Sunday

25° | 18°
Monday

29° | 20°
Tuesday

28° | 16°
Wednesday

30° | 13°
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Andrew pulls the roof on Romper Room.

Sundown Ledge is CLOSED until further notice. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area encompasses all of Sundown's many separate cliffs: The Main Cliff, Lost Horizon Cliff, The Outback Cliff, The Far Cliff, and Gill's Groove Crag.

Sundown Ledge is really the centerpiece of the Kancamagus climbing area. While probably 90% of the climbing activity is rightly focused on The Main Cliff or Lost Horizon Cliff, climbers who venture off the beaten path will be rewarded by solitude, and in some cases, some of the best climbing the area has to offer.

Getting There 

All of the Sundown cliffs can be accessed from the parking lot by the Albany Covered Bridge. This is located where Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road) intersects with the Kancamagus Highway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.0 miles from here

91 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',16],['5.12',17],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',9],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sundown Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sundown Ledge:
The Butterknife   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Boulder Loop Trail Boulders
Rock Garden    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   Lost Horizon
Stiletto   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Cliff
Bon Temps Rouler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Main Cliff
Classic Rock   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Lost Horizon
Rough Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Kennel Boy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Horizon
Vultures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Main Cliff
Tits Out for the Lads   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Agent Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Cliff
Dikenstein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Main Cliff
The Big Rip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Main Cliff
Romper Room   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
The Promised Land   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Main Cliff
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Cliff
Frigid Relations   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 70'   Main Cliff
Big Papa   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad   Main Cliff
Mithras   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sundown Ledge

Featured Route For Sundown Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd Pulling the lower of the cruxes

Eyeless in Gaza 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  NH : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Eyeless might be the perfect sport climb. It's long, but not an endurance nightmare. It has cruxes, but the route could not be considered bouldery. It has a few heartbreaking moves at the top that don't seem that bad when you're fresh, but when you're pumped, it's a whole different story. In other words, you have to consider yourself a true sport climber to send Eyeless.This might explain the shenanigans that went into sending this route. Climbers attempted this route for a few years before it w...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on Sundown Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 31, 2015
Every time I visit here I think "Wow, this place is f'n awesome. Easy parking, casual approach until the talus field and then it's only a few minutes of rock hopping to the cliff band, routes of all variety/difficulty, and some of the best sport climbing I've been on." Plenty of great trad lines as well. I'm always amazed when we have the area to ourselves on a busy weekend. :)
By Emmett Moore
May 31, 2016
Anybody know what the bolted line is to the right of confederacy of dunces? I wasn't sure if it was an open project, but I couldn't find any information in the Handren guide or here.
By dragons
From: Lowell, MA
Nov 18, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Loop Trail entir...
Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Loop Trail entirely closed due to the 370 acre brush fire in the area this last week. A ranger told us this area will very probably be closed at least until Spring 2017 :(


Rock Climbing Photo: Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Trail loop closu...
Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Trail loop closure notice.


Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder Loop Trail at Albany Covered Bridge is clo...
Boulder Loop Trail at Albany Covered Bridge is closed.


The brush fire that started last week did considerable damage to this area, which is now closed. The closure notice says you can be fined up to $5000 and/or imprisoned for 6 months for violating it.

We talked to a ranger who told us that this area will probably be closed until at least Spring of 2017. Apparently there is some concern about "snag trees" that might fall down on your head. Bummer.