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Sundown Ledge

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Alcohol Wall 
Boulder Loop Trail Boulders 
Call of the Wild Cliff 
Far Cliff, The 
Gill's Groove Crag 
Lost Horizon  
Main Cliff 
Outback Cliff 
Parking Lot Boulders 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site:

Sundown Ledge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,120'
Location: 44.00669, -71.23158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 45,405
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 19, 2012  with updates from Ron Birk
Forecast:
Tonight

45°
Monday

66° | 56°
Tuesday

63° | 61°
Wednesday

62° | 51°
Thursday

56° | 41°
Friday

56° | 40°
You & This Area
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Andrew pulls the roof on Romper Room.

Description 

This area encompasses all of Sundown's many separate cliffs: The Main Cliff, Lost Horizon Cliff, The Outback Cliff, The Far Cliff, and Gill's Groove Crag.

Sundown Ledge is really the centerpiece of the Kancamagus climbing area. While probably 90% of the climbing activity is rightly focused on The Main Cliff or Lost Horizon Cliff, climbers who venture off the beaten path will be rewarded by solitude, and in some cases, some of the best climbing the area has to offer.

Getting There 

All of the Sundown cliffs can be accessed from the parking lot by the Albany Covered Bridge. This is located where Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road) intersects with the Kancamagus Highway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.0 miles from here

92 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',16],['5.12',17],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',9],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sundown Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sundown Ledge:
Stop In French   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 15'   Boulder Loop Trail Boulders
The Butterknife   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Boulder Loop Trail Boulders
Rock Garden    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   Lost Horizon
Punk Rock   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Horizon
Bon Temps Rouler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Main Cliff
Kennel Boy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Horizon
Putting the Past Away   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lost Horizon
Vultures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Main Cliff
Agent Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Cliff
Tits Out for the Lads   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Dikenstein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Main Cliff
The Promised Land   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Main Cliff
The Big Rip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Main Cliff
Romper Room   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Gill's Groove   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Gill's Groove Crag
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 70'   Main Cliff
Mithras   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Main Cliff
Big Papa   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad   Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sundown Ledge

Featured Route For Sundown Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Dec 2001, first crux right off the belay. Photo cr...

Naugahyde 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  New Hampshire : Sundown Ledge : Alcohol Wall
The meat of Naugahyde is 8 bolts of sustained crimping on a gently overhanging wall, with only one marginal rest. This route gets the grade of 5.12c/d in the Handren guide, but after a crucial foothold broke low on the headwall, the crux became a body length longer - this extra body length is now probably hardest bit of climbing on the route - which is for the better! Sustained crimping on small edges, sidepulls, underclings after a very "traditional" feeling boulde...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Comments on Sundown Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 31, 2015
Every time I visit here I think "Wow, this place is f'n awesome. Easy parking, casual approach until the talus field and then it's only a few minutes of rock hopping to the cliff band, routes of all variety/difficulty, and some of the best sport climbing I've been on." Plenty of great trad lines as well. I'm always amazed when we have the area to ourselves on a busy weekend. :)
By Emmett Moore
May 31, 2016
Anybody know what the bolted line is to the right of confederacy of dunces? I wasn't sure if it was an open project, but I couldn't find any information in the Handren guide or here.
By dragons
From: MWV, NH
Nov 18, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Loop Trail entir...
Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Loop Trail entirely closed due to the 370 acre brush fire in the area this last week. A ranger told us this area will very probably be closed at least until Spring 2017 :(


Rock Climbing Photo: Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Trail loop closu...
Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Trail loop closure notice.


Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder Loop Trail at Albany Covered Bridge is clo...
Boulder Loop Trail at Albany Covered Bridge is closed.


The brush fire that started last week did considerable damage to this area, which is now closed. The closure notice says you can be fined up to $5000 and/or imprisoned for 6 months for violating it.

We talked to a ranger who told us that this area will probably be closed until at least Spring of 2017. Apparently there is some concern about "snag trees" that might fall down on your head. Bummer.
By dragons
From: MWV, NH
Jan 30, 2017
The Boulder Loop trail is now completely open again. I don't know exactly when it reopened. I went for a little hike there yesterday, and the signs are all down.
By dragons
From: MWV, NH
May 4, 2017
According to Friends of the Ledges, Sundown Ledge is open for climbing as of March 28, 2017.

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