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Menses Prow
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A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 
Abscessed Words to Climb S 
After Dark S 
Armies Of Metaphors S 
B.O.S.S. Method, The S 
Back for More S 
Baroque Period, The S 
Bat Crack T,S 
Big Chill, The S 
Caught in the Middle S 
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Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 
Light Days S 
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Lunch at the Y S 
Menses S 
Metaphysical Fictions S 
My What a Big Bulge S 
No Passion for Fashion S 
Original Route S 
Period Epic S 
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Pig Dictionary S 
Prima Nocta  S 
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Scratch and Claw S 
Shelf's Worst Route S 
Slender Fungus S 
Smart Server S 
Smokin' Crack T 
Stratabulge S 
Sudden Impact S 
Sundogs S 
Thirteen Engines S 
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 
Weed n' Feed T,S 
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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,796
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Oct 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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This is located on Menses Prow, immediately left of No Passion for Fashion. Only given 2 stars in Van Horn's guide, this route is easily as good as numerous other 3 star routes at Shelf. It has very fun, movement oriented climbing...a welcome change from the sharp, thin pockets that characterize routes of this grade at Shelf. The first half of the route tackles the bouldery shallow dihedral and arete (crux moving past 3rd bolt). The rest of the route is low-mid 5.11.


9 or 10 bolts and chain anchors.

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 14, 2009

The bolts on this could use some love. Many of the nuts are lose, so you may want to bring a wrench. Excellent, sustained crimping!
By Elijah Flenner
Apr 16, 2013

Monomaniac is correct. The bolts on this one need some love, especially some of the ancient hangers.
By Tyler Gordon
From: Durango, CO
Apr 21, 2013

This thing has sweet, really cool movement (arete and dihedral in one)with just enough small sharp hold to remind you you're at Shelf.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2014

Not sure we figured out exactly there this line goes. It only took 7-8 draws, but the book says it's 10 or 11, and it doesn't share the same bolts as "No Passion...."
By bonnie bonbits
From: colorado front range
Mar 19, 2015

I'm not sure if this falls under info, or condition report, but the right anchor bolt of this route is a bit rather messed up, to say the least, and needs more than just a bit of love. It needs some emergency metal attention, and stat! It's "open link" or "pinch link" (honestly, I tried google searching images and can't seem to find this particular chain link's name) is rotated upward and literally pinched around the bolt hanger itself. I desperately tried to love on it long time, but all to no avail. I don't believe I'm just being little miss safety sass here. I do think this a notable safety issue. So please, do be cognizant of this issue!
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

^^^ In response to the above comment... the anchor is good now, with standard rap rings on both bolts. Also, maybe you're describing a "lap link"?

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