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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Curt Love, Larry Schafer and Travis R.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,029
Submitted By: CURT LOVE on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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This route was put up on lead, in one day using hooks to place the bolts. I believe it is really well protected, and steep so injury from a fall any where in the 5.11 spot is very unlikely. A fall in the easy spot would be scary, but I doubt that injury would occur. The first five bolts are the meat and offer great movement. Some say that it is hard for the grade but I and others believe it will never be harder than 11 c/d. Have fun, give it all you got, and please for the sake of your own adventure try and do it with out hanging draws or previewing it. I believe that doing so would be silly, it is so well protected there is no reason not to just figure it out on your own, on lead! Write in and let us know what you thought of route. I think it will be the new classic of middle earth.


This route is to the right of the top-rope/rappel route. It faces west more or less, and has a line of black bolts 7 of them, there is a run out after the route slabs out but it is only 5.6 or so and 2 bolts protect this area. The rap anchor is good for this route and you can still TR it that way. You can see all of the conn route when on top of this formation. Duet is just uphill of the saddle and runner rock is on the opposite side of the saddle just downhill.

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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 17, 2004

Poor quality rock.Potential too deck out low down if belayer is least bit attentive.Fun climbing.
Feb 17, 2004

The only way you would hit the nice flat ground is if you feel before the fist bolt witch is only ten feet off the ground. If your belayer feel asleep I could see them dropping you or if they did not know how to belay properly at all but seriously the bolts protect the climb really well. And as for the rock quality almost all new climbs in the park have some adventure quality, but if you look at what your doing you should not have a big problem. Its when you scratch your feet all over the place instead of putting them on holds that you notice poor rock on this route.

By Dan Dewell
Feb 17, 2004

Curt, it's all good. Your routes are fun and exhilirating. Keep up the good work.Get some! Or something like that...

By Daniel Storjohann
From: Golden, CO
Mar 24, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A good route! Cruxy through 5 bolts. I felt like the holds were pretty good. Nothing is a give-a-way at 5.11.

The first time I worked it, I fell once going for the 5th clip. This was just before the slab section. A good ride by the way! I figured it was around 5.11.

I think its a "must climb". Maybe the next step up from Harbinger for a climb of this style?

By josh columb
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Aug 31, 2006

I saw this route as a featured route of the day and thought I would add my comment. I have visited the black hils from st paul mn some twenty plus times over the past 11 years and one day in 2004 I saw this route that I hadn't seen before. I came real close to onsighting the route falling at the fifth clipp right before it gets easier. Although in the following summer I tried it again to get the red point and fell a couple of times. It's hard and sharp down low. I like it because it shows just how many hard face routes await to be put up in the sylvan lake area.
By Darin Limvere
Apr 16, 2008

I was in the hills last summer and was told it was 10a maybe 10b. I hopped on it and quickly realized I'd been completely hosed. Luckily it didn't matter because the route turned out to be one of my favorites of the grade in that area. Barely got the OS. Cool to find the route on here. No one could tell me what it was exactly.. I think it would be pretty hard to fall in the upper section if you can climb the bottom...
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 17, 2008

wonderful route. good rock quality (huge, solid crystals). safe up to the first bolt (notice the two rounded knobs that can be used for feet to gain the clip). sequential crux at the second or third bolt. thanks for putting this up!
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Very good route, I climbed this not knowing what I was getting myself into, good thing I am a 12 climber haha. very well protected and thats coming from a Wisconsin climber, impressive bolting on lead by the way very classic and a must do in my opinion. Almost onsighted it until I chickened out and chocked the cobra at the 5th or so clip.

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