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Newman Peak- "The Shady Lady?"
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sundial 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 650', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: old guys
New Route: Yes
Season: fall to spring
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 3, 2008

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Description 

Near the center of the main wall right of the "thumb" and left of a 200' bulge is the start of the route. Look for a brushy area about 50' up (abortion rappel on the left side here)
p1 climbs a 2nd class ramp right into a corner and up past a heart shaped flake. Continue up the corner and trend right passing several bad bushes. 150' 5.9
p2 climb off belay up a loose prow and traverse right to a bolt. Continue up and right (direct is blocked by loose roofs) to a single bolt and nut belay on a good ledge below a corner. 75' 5.7
p3 Climb corner above then move right to belay after 140' 5.8
p4 traverse right 30' (loose, bad pro) to a 25' corner with a wide crack. (this is directly above the prominent 200' open book or right side of wall). Continue up corner and rocks ledges to belay 100' 5.7.
p5 move belay 30' right on 2nd class ledge
p6 climb to right arête and continue up excellent rock to an inverted Y crack system at 80'. The left hand is easier and has two death blocks, the right is 5.10 slick OW (short, need 7" piece). continue up and follow corner to ledge system. 170'. 5.9+/5.10
p7 climb 12' crack in wall to unstable belay. 12' 5.7

CONSIDER ALL PITCHES R RATED. wear a helmet.

Hole count: 2 on route, 10 for raps total 12

Location 

Middle right of wall. Look for brushy ledges 50' up, the route goes right under these and up corner to right side.
Walk to 20' wall up toward the summit. The rap stations are on the left side of wall..
R1 150', to big grassy ledge.
R2 110' right, down gulley to stance.
R3 170' down ramp to right to ledge (swing to reach anchors)
R4 140' to ledge
R5 140' (past abortion anchor near 1st pitch) to ground.

Protection 

Stoppers to 4" cams. Bring a 7" piece for OW if you want that variation.


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