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Sundial Falls 

Sundial Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 9,427'
Location: 40.60147, -111.68858 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,887
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Aug 25, 2004
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The Sundial is a stunning alpine peak overlooking Lake Blanche, 3 miles and 3000 vertical feet up the Mill-B South trail from the S-Curves in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Routes on the North Face to Northwest Arete are about 500 feet long, and can be done in 3 - 5 pitches, ending at over 10000 feet in elevation. Stunning views of the upper cirques of the Mill B drainage and the central Wasatch Crest, from Twin Peaks to Mt. Superior beckon. As the long line of cars parked on the road any weekend afternoon attests, this trail is popular with hikers, for good reason. The views alone make the hike in worthwhile, while an ascent of the Sundial is the icing on the cake. A 60 meter rope allows you to combine pitches, but is not mandatory. To descend from the top of the climbing routes on the Sundial, scramble up over boulders and piles of slate to the South, towards the true summit, and then angle down to the left (east), towards some pine trees. 3 single rope rappels from sturdy pines will get you to the scree on the northeast side. A 60 meter rope will not make it in 2 raps.

Getting There 

Park at the Mill B South trailhead, on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, at the start of the S-Curves, about 4.5 miles from the park and ride. Follow the mostly well maintained trail 3 miles to Lake Blanche, skirt the lake to the East, and scramble up boulders to the Sundial. Allow about 2 1/2 hours to reach the Sundial. Car to car, we had a 10 hour day.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.9 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sundial

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sundial:
Sundial Falls   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 130'   
Eleventh Hour   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 530'   
11th hour 3rd pitch variation    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   
Eleven-Thirty   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sundial

Featured Route For Sundial
Rock Climbing Photo: Great fall colors!

Eleventh Hour 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Sundial
Pitch 1: Start on the right/west end of the North face, linking small weaknesses to a big ledge at 180+ feet. Build a belay and/or move belay around the corner 50 feet to the right. Pitch 2: Climb a large left facing corner, staying left below steep roofs....a very smooth slab section is mastered using holds on the right and a long reach. Belay on obvious nice ledge. Pitch 3: Start by climbing either of two left angling cracks for about 25 feet (fingers on the right, thin...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Sundial Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundial from Lake Blanche.
Sundial from Lake Blanche.
Rock Climbing Photo: Because its there....
Because its there....
Rock Climbing Photo: late afternoon
late afternoon
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama of the Sundial/Lake Blanche area. Note th...
Panorama of the Sundial/Lake Blanche area. Note th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundial - detail of the North Face.
BETA PHOTO: Sundial - detail of the North Face.

Comments on Sundial Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mulch
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 18, 2017
Climbed sundial yesterday and took a huge 30+ ft fall onto a ledge after my last piece of pro ripped out of the wall. Luckily the piece below held and prevented me from falling further down the mountain. Severely bruised my right leg and think I may have broken a rib on my left side. My buddies immediately sprang into action to get us all down the mountain. We thought we were climbing Eleventh hour and thought the 3rd pitch ascended the west face to the right of the huge corner. That pitch landed us on the crux pitch of afternoon delight (looking on mountain project today confirmed that).I pulled the roof and got up to the crimps above where the gear was sparse and took the fall. In the midst of all the chaos I had to leave a good amount of gear. One #0 dmm dragon cam with an alpine draw, one blue dmm offset with an alpine draw, and above the roof pull I left one #2 dmm dragon cam half way nudged in a crack. Knowing that I'm going to be out of commission for a little, if anyone is climbing that section of sundial and is willing to retrieve my gear for me it would seriously be greatly appreciated.

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