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Sundial Falls 

Sundial Falls 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 130', Grade II
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: ???
Season: Early winter (before much snow has fallen)
Page Views: 1,808
Submitted By: Sam Cannon on Nov 21, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Possible approach routes.

Description 

A steppy flow of decent length that offers a short vertical column that would be the crux if you choose to climb it, but this can be avoided in favor of a bulge/ramp to its right that is lower angle that leads up to another short bulge. We did this route late November of 2013 and the ice was thick enough for good screw placements.

Location 

To the right of Sundial is a waterfall that freezes in winter. This is your destination. The ice is obvious from Lake Blanche. We traveled around the left side of the lake to avoid bushwhacking, coming up to below the start to "Eleventh Hour" and traversing over to the base of the falls, but encountered deep pockets of snow in the boulderfield that may have been avoided traversing around the right side of the lake and coming up to the flow from directly beneath it. Use your own judgment.

The approach took about 3 hrs, including some significant snow slogging. Your mileage may vary based on current snow levels/conditions. Many will likely find the amount of climbing to not be worth the approach; however, Lake Blanche/Sundial is breathtaking in the winter and the hike in is justified by the views alone. Also, at least this year (2013), this route is one of the earlier flows to have formed up.

Protection 

Ice screws, stubbies to mid-length. 4 to sew it up, though competent climbers will probably be free-soloing or only placing 1 or 2 screws. Didn't really see any possibilities for rock pro. If you continue up a small gully above the top of the flow of ice you can drop into a small ledge on your left that has a good tree to belay your second off of.

The climb can be done with a 60m rope, though doubles or a tag line are needed for the rap (look for fresh tat on a tree to the right as you're facing down the climb).


Photos of Sundial Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundial Falls 11/21/2015
Sundial Falls 11/21/2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundial Falls as seen from Lake Blanche. 12/5/14
Sundial Falls as seen from Lake Blanche. 12/5/14
Rock Climbing Photo: The route as seen from the northwest boulder field...
The route as seen from the northwest boulder field...
Rock Climbing Photo: photo: Kai Larson  Garret Nuzo-Jones leading
photo: Kai Larson Garret Nuzo-Jones leading
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundial. You can barely make out the flow to the r...
Sundial. You can barely make out the flow to the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route. Better than it looks.
BETA PHOTO: The route. Better than it looks.

Comments on Sundial Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2013

Route requires two 60m ropes to rap. Tat on live tree off on the left.
By Brett Verhoef
From: Northern Utah
Dec 6, 2014
rating: WI3+

Traversing the boulder field below Eleventh Hour on the north slope of Sundial was time consuming. When I make the trek again I plan on going around Lake Blanche to the west and approaching the climb more directly. That would require more distance but would probably be easier.
Edit: Approaching from west of Lake Blanche to below the falls was definitely easier.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 4, 2015

5/4/15 - PAGE EDIT: Name changed from "Frozen In Time" (my creation for lack of a better/established name) to "Sundial Falls" to reflect the new UT Ice Guidebook (thanks Nathan Smith!).
By Brett Verhoef
From: Northern Utah
Nov 21, 2015
rating: WI3+

Rappel can be done with one 60 m rope by rappeling to a tree far to the climber's left and then making a second rappel to the base.

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