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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Palen and Mark Scott, August 2002
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Some of the more interesting stemming on the cliff.

Start this route by fighting off the barndoor of a very tricky sequence in a corner/groove crack that leads to a welcomed stance at 50' below a steep, and tremendous finger crack. Work up this crack, mastering this stemming exercise, and gain the anchor.


The 3rd dihedral right of the main corner. There is a low pin in the crack/groove that marks the beginning of the route. Also, on the left wall of that dihedral, there are 3 bolts that mark the beginning of the route "Time Bomb" (5.10d).


A standard rack with the addition of some RPs and a couple extra blue and green Aliens for the upper finger crack.

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By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Apr 8, 2011

Really fun climb. One awkward but well protected crux move, then a really fun corner up high.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
Mar 25, 2012

After pulling the hard moves at the bottom, be sure to sew up the crack. This is not for safety, as the climbing is not super hard and there are pitons, but as you climb higher, the rope is prone to being sucked into the crack to the point that upward progress is impossible. putting an extra smallish cam or two in down low can save you having to bail off this great climb before the beautiful high finger crack.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Aug 12, 2017

I second Drake's comment on the rope getting caught in the crack. Somehow I had forgotten this handy piece of beta when I was at the crag. I got stuck halfway up but managed to plug a quick anchor, wiggle the rope out, lower and fixed it up. I think a blue TCU was the money piece for that... Funny part was that though I had "cruised" (as my belayer put it) the crux on lead, I had to hang to figure it out when I had the toprope just two minutes later!

Also, the upper corner was dry when I did it, really enjoyed the stemming, a bit reminiscent of Partition. The low crux was just what I expect of 5.9, loved it! A few tricky moves broken by awesome "Deadwater Jugs"
By Oakcy
Sep 5, 2017

The pin at 30 feet has gone missing. Still protects just fine with tcu or passive pro.

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