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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Barbis, 1994
Page Views: 605
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 12, 2004

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One of the only slab routes on the north wall, Sundance also has a direct .11a start that begins with an overhung section and a good mantle.

It is the second route from the right on the North Wall, and after a moderate start you find yourself on a ledge and join the direct start. Then you climb past 7 (?) bolts on slabby terrain that is surprisingly challenging. There are three bulges that make for ~10a moves and each is punctuated by an easier section.

It looked like a joke from the ground, but I was surprised by how much fun I had on the slab.


8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor w/ chains.A runner would be advisable for the first two bolts.

The direct route might be considered 'serious' as a fall finishing the mantle will probably put you back on the deck.

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By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 19, 2004

This is the best warmup route on The North Wall.

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