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Sunburst S 

Sunburst 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bill Ohran
Season: Winter
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: Ken Noyce on Jan 22, 2016

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Is this in Spain? Nope, Chelsea on the amazing dou...

Description 

This is a great route on awesome rock. The route climbs up a lower angled easy broken dihedral for the first half of the climb then when the angle kicks back it follows an awesome double tufa feature for a few bolts before the main tufas disappear and you face a couple of crimpy technical cruxes with good holds in between for the last three or so bolts to the chains.

Location 

This is the second to furthest right route on the wall and shares the start with the furthest right route on the wall. from the base of Sun Dog, where the wall seems to end, look across the slab to your right about 20 feet and you'll see the line of bolts starting up the slab. Traverse across the slab and belay from the first bolt to ensure that you can get all the way to the ground from the anchors with a 60 meter rope. You may be able to belay from below the slab with a 70, but I haven't tried, so not 100% sure about that.

Protection 

11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.


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By lech
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The second half of the climb is worth doing the first half. The tufa moves are superb. For me the crux was high up making a big bump up and right and then getting my feet really high on some small rough patches that threatened to flake off. Don't worry about the climb easing up at the top bad slopers will keep you engaged all the way to the chains. Fun and pumpy.

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