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Sunburst Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,806
Submitted By: M Hosmer on Aug 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown climbers on Sunburst Arete

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Pitch 1: Sunburst Arete starts up a wide crack to the top of a pedestal on the left of the arete itself. Once there continue up on the left of the arete from good rest ledge to good rest ledge. At about 2/3 height move out right around the arete for a few moves before swinging back left across the arete again. Now finish straight up to a spacious belay ledge. (100')

    Pitch 2: Above the ledge you run into a 4 inch crack, that tapers into a hand crack. At the top of this move left under a roof. Pass above the roof on the left side to a grassy ledge and slung block rap anchors to the right. (80')

    From here, a two rope rappel will bring you back to the ground, or you can continue above meeting up with the last two pitches of paralysis.


    Continue along approach trail past Gamesmanship, and past Fastest Gun for approximately 10 minutes. Once you reach the amphitheater, with Cirrhosis and Paralysis you can see the Arete to the far right side of the cliff.


    Gear to 4 inches, including Micro stoppers

    Comments on Sunburst Arete Add Comment
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    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Aug 12, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    I climbed this route for the first time today, and was amazed at the quality of climbing/position it offered. I also felt that though the climbing on the first pitch was relatively easy, it felt a bit spicy/runout in sections(PG-13ish due to some ankle breaking potential if a couple of brassies about 1/3 of the way up pull). The 2nd pitch, though very straight forward, seemed stout in the grade.
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Jun 20, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    I agree with Chris. 1/3 of the way up is the mental crux; a few inobvious moves and protected by "okay" micro stoppers/micro cams. The arete is stellar positioning and exposure. P2 is as 5.8 as you can get before being 5.9-. See the comment section for Paralysis for info on how to link up with the upper pitches (P4-5) to make this into an adventurous 4-pitch route that tops out.
    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Jul 18, 2011

    An excellent adventure, especially if done in conjunction with P3 & 4 of Paralysis. The gear is definitely thin, so it warrants PG13. The areat moves on P2, while easy for the route, are quite spectacular!
    By Alex Mitchell
    From: Cincinnati, OH
    Oct 14, 2012

    I found the first pitch to be pretty scary! It seemed like you would get gear at a ledge and then have to make a difficult move above that ledge. Lots of ankle breaking potential! Cool route non the less.
    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 12, 2015

    Outstanding climbing, and certainly stout in the grade. Lots of ledge fall potential on P1 as others have mentioned. The P2 crack is steep and sustained, and climbing straight through the small overhang near the top rather than stepping left around it is feasible and fun, if harder than 5.8.

    The cracks at the first belay have lots of hollow rock, and building a solid anchor requires some care, though it can be done.
    By David Mierzwa
    From: Tonawanda
    Aug 20, 2015

    Built a repel station at the end of the 2nd pitch with two slings and a nut. Please do not take this gear home for yourself it clearly has not been left there as a mistake.
    By Evan Kirk
    Sep 16, 2016

    Climbed this yesterday and here was my takeaway:
    1) Great position and exposure for 5.8, overall great climbing!
    2) Did not need rp's for 'adequate' protection. Certainly spots where you don't want to fall but for reference it felt PG by Gunks standards...
    3) P1 belay has loose blocks/flakes but if you happen to end up at the belay with a #4 it's bomber up high.

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