|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007|
|Comments on Sunblessed||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Doug D
From: Park City, Utah
Sep 20, 2007
|The book pitches this out in four. As stated do it in three. There is bolts before the last crux crack on the right hand side of the wall. Belay from here or at least have your leader clip the bolt, as blowing it before they get to the bolt next to the crack would set you up for a bad day.|
By Luke Hanley
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2008
|I remember the first two bolts off the deck being smashed, so no gear for 25 feet or so. It's probably 5.9, slick , but with positive edges. A great route, but i could have skipped the last pitch (p3) and been happy to go back to camp.|
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 23, 2008
I really enjoyed this climb. The first pitch definitely has you go about 25 feet until the first bolt, but I didn't see any smashed bolts.
The second pitch was great except that it's hard to see how long it is so I kept wondering what gear I needed to save for later. In the end I would say that two purple, three green, and two red camalots plus some large nuts (#12-14 BD) would be ideal. I only had two greens and ended up doing some leapfrogging, although if I knew that it stayed reasonably moderate after the first ten feet I probably would have just carried on without leapfrogging.
I wanted to do the last pitch even though it seems to have a reputation as less pleasant. While it's not a three-star splitter like pitch two, I found it really rewarding. McLane's guidebook described it as "hand and flary fist jamming." I was surprised by just how much it flares at the bottom. I got a 3.5 camalot in the initial flare (where it's worst) and actually felt pretty comfortable stemming until the one and only bolt. Once I had the bolt clipped, the jams gradually got better and so did the pro, but it was burly for the grade all the way to the top. No amount of gym climbing will teach you how to do this pitch.
A 70m rope was perfect for getting down in the three rappels.
Jul 24, 2008
|Way awesome climb. Glad to see the picture on the front page. Every pitch is good, but the 1st one could be a little scary with the pro or lack of that I remember from the mif 90's.|
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Aug 25, 2008
I really liked this climb, which has a terrific amount of variety.
The p1 dike moves weren't hard but because of the way the dike angles left almost every move felt off-balanced.
P2 was a textbook thin crack.
On p3, we took the left finish, which I thought was the best pitch: a couple of interesting face moves, some delicate stemming, and an interesting, hard-to-read exit move, with bolts and a little thin gear wherever you needed it. You could easily do both finishes, which I would have liked to have tried if my partner wasn't pressed for time.
From: las vegas nv
Sep 15, 2009
|Easy to miss the approach trail(s). No smashed bolts when I seconded this. Great views.|
By Matt Hoffmann
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pretty fun route. Every pitch has a very distinct character.
P1 - Seriously runout to the first bolt. Pretty scary so keep your head together for this one as as a fall even halfway to the bolt would be nasty. (estimate it's 7 - 9 meters up). The movements on the dyke are cool and balancy
P2 - Thin hand and finger crack. Super super super fun.
P3 - The slab was easy and I didn't bother placing any gear but there are several very loose flakes at the top of the slab before the bolts. Be careful stepping up there. The corner starts off very flaring. I was pretty comfortable with a #4 camalot at the bottom of the flare then some stemming to the bolt. Decent jams come eventually with good gear.
Great climb but, it's disappointing that the start is so unnecessarily runout. I would think the approach alone would prevent this climb from becoming polished anyway.
Notes on the approach. When you leave the main trail you should see the climb Big Fat Joint (with it's bolts) right away. If you don't go back and keep hiking up the trail. We got confused with an earlier exit and wasted 20 minutes trying to figure out where the solarium is.