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Sunbeam Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backstabber S 
Moonshine S 
Morning Sun S 
Out of the Dark S 
Predator S 
Prey S 
Radical Evolution S 
Revenge of the Sith T 
Stems and Seeds TR 
Sunbeam S 
Universal Gravitation S 
Where's My Chisel S 

Sunbeam Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,028'
Location: 37.7351, -83.6371 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,047
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 7, 2010  with updates from Kyle Johnston
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Description 

South Facing wall that sees little traffic. Most of the classic routes have a difficult roof section to pull at the beginning, which then leads to easy, but pumpy climbing. During the warmer months, the trees block most of the sun trying to reach this wall. The rock is solid sandstone with lots of edges and slots.

Getting There 

Hike towards the Solarium. When you reach the main trail that cuts along the base of the Solarium and the Great Arch, continue following this trail down a small hill and through a grassy meadow. Take the first left and follow this trail a short distance to the base of Sunbeam. The classic routes Sunbeam, Moonshine, and Out of the Dark all begin at the head of the trail. About 25 minutes from the parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunbeam Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunbeam Buttress:
Moonshine   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   
Out of the Dark   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Sunbeam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunbeam Buttress

Featured Route For Sunbeam Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Fighting the pump on Sunbeam

Sunbeam 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : Sunbeam Buttress
Climb the same start as Moonshine. Stay left of the arete for a difficult roof pull. Clip the long SS cable hanging from the bolt and make very strenuous moves to get established above the roof. Follow pumpy slots and horizontals to the anchor.Beware the crux has ledge fall potential without a watchful belay....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

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