Compliments of a co-worker
If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sun Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sun Wall:
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Pat Ewing 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 80'
Irish Jig 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Labia 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Predator 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c North Carolina
: Looking Glass Rock
: Sun Wall
This route is an Odyssey, and seems right on par for what a Sun Wall route should be. This is probably one of the easier routes on this wall to start out on. P1: The Shull/Lambert topo shows a gradual rightward rising traverse to get to the crack. Don't do this. From the rack-up spot below Prey traverse straight right on a 3rd class slab until you are directly below the crack, then go straight up on eyebrows. You'll have to make a couple committing slab moves with gear at your feet, but yo...[more] Browse More Classics in North Carolina