A busy day at Sun Wall
With its southern exposure, the aptly-named Sun Wall is a great place to climb in the winter (and to be avoided in the hot summer months). This cliffline runs parallel to the road into Sand Rock, and in many places you'll see roadside campsites across the way after topping out. The wall is actually a series of free-standing towers detached from the main wall; in many places, the gap is narrow enough to jump across and hike back down to the trail.
The Sun Wall is best known for great sport routes like Misty
, but there's also a number of fine trad lines here as well. It's also a good place to get away from the crowds at the Pinnacle and Holiday Block.
From the parking lot, cut left before heading to the Pinnacle/Holiday block areas; follow a trail down the hill and to the left until you reach the base of the cliff.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sun Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sun Wall:
Knob Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Pop Tarts 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Larry 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Windows 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Moe 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
White Gold 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Sneakers 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Misty 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Disneyland 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Dreamscape 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Bocephus 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Rave 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Nothingness 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
Leading Misty. Photo by Frank N.
Mar 5, 2007
Much of this wall is bone dry on really wet days. Shockingly dry. Worth the drive when you just know everything else will be wet dry.
From: Birmingham, AL
Aug 21, 2012
When walking from the Sandtrap towards Larry/Moe/Curly there is a small trail that goes down hill to the right. It almost looks like water runoff. Take the right then the trail forks and go left. There's a 40 foot face that has five routes with anchors. From left to right they are probably 7/8?..7..6..9..11-. I only climbed the first 7/8,6, and 9. Some guys were working the harder route and said it was 11b.
It's a great spot for some first sport leads. The routes are short, well protected, close to each other.
The first 7/8? has a dead point/dyno to a jug at the top to clip the anchors from. A very dirty crack may provide an alternative but the big move is fun.
Second rotue from left I didn't climb. From the look of it I'd guess a 7.
The 6? goes up a corner with huge buckets.
The 9+? that is to the right of the big crack is thin with good moves all the way up. Higher up you can move a bit left to big jugs but it seems off route. A two finger half pad left hand gives you a high clip unles you move left to the jugs.
The 11b? looks interesting with a low crux, some creative sidepulls, and good footwork. Stick clip needed for this one.