|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 95'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Jay Smith et al, 80s|
|Submitted By:||Aerili on Nov 20, 2009|
|Comments on Sun Wall Middle||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 5, 2010
|New webbing was added to this route's anchor as of 4/24/10.|
By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 28, 2011
Nice route. Mostly thin hands and hands with a short but awkward wide pod at the beginning.
2 #4s would not go unused but aren't absolutely necessary. I'd bring at least 1. Doubles of fingers to hands is nice to have if you want to sew it up.
I'm not sure what the 'correct' way to go at the top is. After pulling the roof through the bombay section, there's one more tricky thin hands section then you get to a nice stance. I checked it out straight up from here but the rock quality was kinda crap. You can traverse 5 feet right into a more solid crack system and head to the top. This deposited me in an easy chimney. I kept going to the top and belayed from bolts above Sun Wall Right. I suppose you could also traverse climber's left at the top and belay at some bolts above Sun Wall Left.
1 60m rope makes it down from the bolts above Sun Wall Right, but just barely. Watch your ends carefully.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 30, 2015
|Really good hand jams except for the weird pod. The whole climb protects well in the hand size but you can use a #3/#4 in the pod to protect and step left onto a shelf outside of it. Getting back into the hand crack above wasn't hard for me (I'm 5' 11'') but it was very difficult for my partner (she is 5' 2''). The whole climb is short sustained 5.10b sections with good rests in between all the way up. This is obvious from the ground.|