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8 - Sun Wall Area
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Sun Wall Left 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,754
Submitted By: urs on Jul 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Karl battling out the crux.


This beautiful and sustained finger crack follows a awkward offwidth crack into a clean splinter finger crack up a smooth head wall. With pefect finger locks and lye backs, this is by far one of the best cracks i have done!!!
There are 2 ways of doing this climb which are:
1. Start from the left and traverse to the right into the finger crack
2. Or take the direct start on the tricky offwidth that makes the 10c grade pretty stiff. Though definitly the best choice if ur up for a challenge.


This route is located around the corner to right of The Perfect Lyeback 5.8.


A standard rack from nuts, tcu's, and friends to 3 inchs should do fine and there is a bolted anchor with open cold shuts at the top.

Photos of Sun Wall Left Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sherry Hao on Sun Wall, Left
Sherry Hao on Sun Wall, Left
Rock Climbing Photo: Me about to reach the ledge where the left travers...
Me about to reach the ledge where the left travers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the crux finger crack. The steepness o...
Starting up the crux finger crack. The steepness o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me starting up on the interesting offwidth section...
Me starting up on the interesting offwidth section...

Comments on Sun Wall Left Add Comment
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By Ryan Curry
Aug 28, 2009

The first ascent of this classy pitch, as well as the 5.10b just right of it, were made by Jay Smith and friends in the '80's. Both are pretty stiff at their respective grades.
One of my favorite climbs on the Sun Wall is a long 5.10a chimney on the far right side of the cliff. A little run-out, it offers chimney to hands on impeccable stone and is super classic.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
May 18, 2010

This is a great route, solid for the grade, and requiring many climbing techniques to reach the anchors. Jay Smith had a visionary eye for great routes.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Absolutely classic and quite stiff. Did the left hand variation, bring #4's.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 22, 2013

Did the left hand variation. The hardest move comes right before the ledge, with the last obvious pro well below your feet. Had to move in some uncommon ways to make it work, but it was great!
By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

My favorite climb so far at Woodfords.. a mix of everything. Do the direct (wide) start. Don't need anything bigger than one #3, one #2 and otherwise small stuff.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 30, 2015

I thought I had average size hands/fingers for a dude but that upper finger crack was like off-fingers for me. I was finger stacking and had problems staying in.

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