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Sun Tzu 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski, Brandon Lawson (2011)
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 3, 2015

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Heading out on the 3rd pitch traverse.

Description 

This is one of the easiest and best protected routes on the face that goes all the way to the top.

Begin in an obvious vertical left facing corner with perfect fingers and hands. Traverse out right to avoid dirt and a bush near the top on good holds to a ledge and a two bolt anchor.

Pitch two climbs splitter cracks on a low angle face up and right to a corner where you'll step out right onto an exposed face and mantle up onto a narrow ledge. Follow this exposed ledge system (kinda cool) as it pinches down toward the end where a thin slab will guard your exit. A short section of thin nubbins (5.10c) puts you back on a ledge where a two bolt anchor waits.

Pitch 3 traverses out right on Tuolumne style crystals past a few bolts, then heads strait up into less vertical terrain. There are many places to build an anchor but a 60m rope will barely make it to the trees on top.

Location 

The start of this one is fairly obvious as it begins in a very prominent left facing dihedral.
You can rappel the route from the first pitch with a 60m rope. You may be able to rappel from the second pitch to the ground with a 60m rope as well due to the traversing nature of the route. I doubt it will make it all the way down, but you may be able to downclimb as the angle below is not too steep.

Protection 

Cams, .5"-3"
Nuts, 1 set.


Photos of Sun Tzu Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the start of pitch 2
Looking down at the start of pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the very exposed traverse on pitch...
Looking down at the very exposed traverse on pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming the start of Sun Tzu
Jamming the start of Sun Tzu

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