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Space Wall
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Alien Sex  S 
Black Hole, The T,TR 
Dark Side Of The Moon T 
Kwijibo S,TR 
Made in Japan S 
Moonshadow S 
Neanderthal Dudes S 
Purple Toupee S 
Sun Spots T,S 

Sun Spots 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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A closer view of Sun Spots shows the B1 difficult ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is essentially 5.9 A0 or .11+/12-. If you clip the first bolt and french-free through the starting bulge, you'll be rewarded with a nice, moderate slab. Or try to climb through the awkward and fairly difficult start, and probably be disappointed by how easy the rest of the route is. Your choice.

Protection 

4-5 bolts and a green alien/blue TCU/.3 Camalot to anchors. Bolts are new as of 2009.

Location 

Farthest right route at Space Wall, on the slab.


Photos of Sun Spots Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the approximate route up Sun Spot...
This photo shows the approximate route up Sun Spot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Seen from the road, Sun Spots sits on the right si...
Seen from the road, Sun Spots sits on the right si...

Comments on Sun Spots Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 5, 2006

The 1/4 bolts are still there, and after soloing The Black Hole, I went up for a look see for anchors. I didn't see any. I did see some old webbing hanging around a large mazanita bush up top and a LONG way from the final bolt, though the top didn't look very difficult. So - if you want to set up a top rope, bring some sacrifical webbing and a 20'+ sling and climb the chimney to the left.
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

JMO---This route seemed pretty lame to me...not much opportunity for pro, either. Like Paul sez, the B1 start is ugg.

Barely even a candidate for 1/1 replacement. Do yourself a favor and do "Moonshadow" or any other route nearby.
By Reuben Shelton
Sep 10, 2009

This climb now has 3/8" bolts (bring a green alien or equivalent for horizontal crack between 2nd and 3rd bolts) and a proper bolted anchor, the start however is still heinous
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Mar 13, 2012

Just yard through the first bolt, otherwise makes for a mellow warm-up. Blue TCU works well for the horizontal.

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