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Sun Spot 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sue Miller, 1991
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sun Spot climbs the gray face between the detached...


This venerable classic has been a regular stop on the warm-up circuit for years. As such, it is now severely polished, but still worth doing if you don't mind working a wee bit harder than usual for the grade. The rock is generally excellent, with a number of great pockets, and smooth crimps that are easy on the skin.

Stick clip the first bolt, and make cruxy moves off the deck to reach a decent jug at the second bolt. The difficulty eases above, but intricate moves between small pockets keep the pump going all the way to the chains.


On the far left end of the Killer Cave, beginning 5 feet left of Harvest Moon (which has ring bolts).


~8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

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By Elijah Flenner
Oct 24, 2010

Can get very slick when in the sun between the second and third bolt. Good route with fun climbing to the anchors.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Apr 26, 2013

big moves to crimps and pockets with less than ideal feet, easier pockets towards the top really fun
By Adam Keifenheim
Jan 28, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I probably tried this with too much heat and sun, and it felt very slick and hard at the grade. Excellent moves, though. You can jug up on Firecracker kid to the left to clip the first bolt if you don't have a stick clip along.

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