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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
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Acid Rock T 
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Bihedral T 
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Blood Diamond S 
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Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Sun Spot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck, 1975. Bolts: Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 2/6/09
Page Views: 4,000
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The route.

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  • Description 

    Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go.

    The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February.

    Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.

    Location 

    Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.

    Protection 

    Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

    The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.


    Comments on Sun Spot Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Justin Deal
    From: Denver, CO
    Dec 25, 2010

    Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Mar 26, 2012

    I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish.

    Prod.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Nov 27, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The #4 goes about four feet above the 1st bolt. I did not place a #3, but you certainly could. For my other gear, my biggest piece was a #1.
    By James Hicks
    From: Grand Junction, CO
    Jan 20, 2014

    I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway.

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