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Sun Devil Wall

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Appendicitis S 
Astro Devil S 
Heat Seeker S 
Icarus S 
Seventh Sun S 
Suicidal Society S 
Sun Devil S 
Sun Devil Crack T 
Suntoucher S 

Sun Devil Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 35.80568, -106.14055 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,584
Administrators: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011
Forecast:
This Afternoon

32° | 25°
Sunday

55° | 35°
Monday

67° | 39°
Tuesday

71° | 40°
Wednesday

66° | 37°
Thursday

70° | 44°
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BETA PHOTO: Close-up topo of Sun Devil Crag

Description 

This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.

Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.


Getting There 

This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.

Climbing Season

For the Diablo Canyon area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sun Devil Wall:
Heat Seeker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Sun Devil   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Suntoucher   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Astro Devil   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   
Seventh Sun   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sun Devil Wall

Featured Route For Sun Devil Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of Astro Devil

Astro Devil 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : ... : Sun Devil Wall
The first pitch starts on the right-most side of the Solar Cave and heads up some awkward and steep rock through multiple tricky moves. At the 5th bolt, it begins to trend up and right to eventually reach the Sun Devil ledge system right below the Astro Devil face that shares space with the first anchor of Sun Devil. From here, one elegant pitch followed by one wild pitch take you to the top-out. Descend by 3 rappels, the last being a rope stretcher for a 60m, so be careful. You can also ea...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Sun Devil Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of the Sun Devil Wall
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the Sun Devil Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: SunDevil is #2.
BETA PHOTO: SunDevil is #2.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1-Sun DevilCrack 2-Sun Devil  3-Astro Devil 4-Sun ...
BETA PHOTO: 1-Sun DevilCrack 2-Sun Devil 3-Astro Devil 4-Sun ...

Comments on Sun Devil Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008
Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 4, 2013
Does anyone know how to contact the FA party for Sun Devil Crack? I would like to clean the crap (read: loose rock) out of it so it is climbable AND fun. Its a beautiful line and deserves repeat ascents. As far as I know, there is no beta for this route, probably because the parties thought it was not worth repeating due to bad gear and loose rock in the chimney system. Perhaps I will add a rap anchor to it as well.

Keep in mind, the FA party probably did not have all the bolted approach pitch options to the Sun-Devil ledge either, so its not necessarily in its pure original form anyhow.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
May 10, 2015
A 5.10 climber looking to get way up high might consider climbing partial link-ups of these routes, like:
-the first pitch of Sun Devil (5.9) then the 2nd pitch of Seventh Sun (5.10)
-the first pitch of Heat Seeker (5.9), then the next 2 of Suntoucher (5.10, 5.10)

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