Sun Devil Crack
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An instant classic trad line, the obvious wide crack on the Sun Devil Wall. Very fun stemming, chimneying, face climbing and jamming up 170' of wide corner.
Just left of Sun Devil, just right of Astro Devil. Starts from the Sun Devil Ledge and climbs up 170 feet to belay ledge at top of crag. From the top belay, there is a short scramble to the top of the crag for the view (should be mandatory) via tunneling under the giant chockstone and up the gulley. Optional walk off back to car is easy too.
Single rack to #6, doubles on the wide stuff. Rap anchors at top and midway up the climb. Single 60m will make it in two raps to Sun Devil Ledge.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
May 10, 2015
Some (2?) new bolts protect the wider section on the last pitch.
Mar 17, 2017
Hardly any protection on the first half of the crack other than #5 and #6. Great climb though, highlight of my trip to Diablo.