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Summer of Blood 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 1300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Curt Schoenfeld, Shenelle Schoenfeld, 11/16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: Curt Schoenfeld on Nov 19, 2016

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Curt feeling exposed on pitch 4.

Description 

This completely bolted sport route climbs the entire slab. This is a great way to climb a lot of pitches in a short amount of time. Follow Mixed Greens for the first 2 pitches. It is very easy to solo the first two pitches of the route, as no move is ever very difficult and there are many ledges to rest on if needed. All you will need for this route is 12 draws and a 70 meter rope (mandatory).

Pitch 1 (5.2): begin at the very base of the slab. Wander from ledge to ledge, heading for the giant dead tree at the bottom of the grassy bowl. The left side of the slab will be easier and safer if soloing. Belay at the dead tree or continue soloing through pitch 2, standard rack, 250'.

Pitch 2 (5.2): follow the slab around the right side of the large boulder. Once past the large boulder, head up and left toward the large trees at the top of the bowl, standard rack, 200'.

Pitch 3 (5.5): from the last of the nice level scoops above the trees, find the large, left-facing crescent crack of Mixed Greens. Look approximately 30 feet to the left to find the first bolt. Shoe up, and head straight for it. Continue past 3 bolts to a large scoop with a two bolt anchor, 3 bolts + anchors, 150'.

Pitch 4 (5.7): this pitch climbs the large ramp/dihedral to surmount the overhang to the left. Hop down the 4' ledge to the left, and follow the overhanging crack/ledge heading toward the first bolt. Mantel onto the slab, clip the first bolt, and head to the base of the ramp. Mantel onto the ramp, and head into the abyss. Clip 3 bolts before turning onto the main slab above. Make a committing move on your way up to the hanging belay on the overhanging ledge. This pitch is never really hard, but climbing the ramp is very exciting, and this is the most exposed you will feel anywhere on the entire wall, 4 bolts + anchors, 80'. Super fun climbing!

Pitch 5 (5.6): head up and right over wave after wave of perfect granite. Pass 5 bolts to eventually reach a two bolt belay in a comfortable scoop, 5 bolts + anchors, 180'.

Pitch 6 (5.7): look up 20' to see your first bolt. Head for the crescent ramp above. Continue straight up clipping 6 bolts along the way. After the sixth bolt, the climbing eases back considerably. Run out the next 80' over easy, 5.2, no hands climbing to reach a two bolt belay next to a giant ledge. You absolutely have to have a 70 meter rope for this pitch. You will use all but 15' of it, 6 bolts + anchors, 215'.

Pitch 7 (5.2): from the ledge climb, scramble and hike to the top of the wall. Most will pack the gear up on the ledge atop pitch 6 and solo to the top. Finish at the high tension power liness, standard rack, 300'.

FA: Curt Schoenfeld & Shenelle Schoenfeld, 11/19/16.

Protection 

Pitch 1: standard rack, solo.
Pitch 2: standard rack, solo.
Pitch 3: 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 6: 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 7: standard rack, solo.


Photos of Summer of Blood Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shenelle on pitch 5.
Shenelle on pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Curt on the FA of pitch 4.
Curt on the FA of pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the start of pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: The view from the start of pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the start of pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: The view from the start of pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the start of pitch 4.
BETA PHOTO: The view from the start of pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the start of pitch 3.  Looking at pi...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the start of pitch 3. Looking at pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the bottom of the slab, looking up a...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the bottom of the slab, looking up a...

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