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Coal Pit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 
Buenaventura , The T 
Coalpit Connection T 
Direct North Face T 
DoggyStyle T 
House of Cards T 
King Cobra Corner T 
Misunderstood T 
One Time at Band Camp S 
Organization for the Organized T 
Precious Lost T 
Refugees From Reality T 
Shizznit T 
Stick Man S 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Stifflers Stiffy T 
Stuck a Flute in My S 
Sumatra T 
Tony's Route T 
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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jame Garrett, Tyler Phillips, Franziska Garrett 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jul 1, 2005

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  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored Coalpit Buttress.

    Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.

    Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.
    Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.
    Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.
    Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.

    One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the pitch #5 of Stifflers Mom or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.


    QDs and a good assortment of nuts, TCUs, and cams to #3

    Comments on Sumatra Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 25, 2005

    Why not post the info? Then all these sweet new lines will get climbed, cleaned, and grades confirmed! Oh yeah!!
    By Moritz B.
    Jun 8, 2014

    We linked this line today with Stiffler´s Mom.
    These are just my thoughts on the route:
    First Pitch:
    Fun slab climbing. A little dirty on certain spots. If you climb the natural way of the line (a little to the left) it doesn´t feel like 10+ and you can still clip all the bolts. The bolt line is kind of forced in the middle of the slab. That section might be 10+ but again - why climb it just to make it hard?
    Second Pitch:
    Lots of bushes and trees. Better forget about that pitch.
    Third Pitch:
    Fun Slab climbing. The crux is pretty tricky. Don´t go too far to the left on that rail! The runout after the last bolt can be avoided by placing a bomber blue/purple offset Metolius cam.
    Fourth Pitch:
    A lot of sand, trees etc.

    All in all the first and the third pitch are O.K.
    As a one-time-link up with Stiffler´s Mom it was fun though!

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