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Sultana 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch and Craig Kenyon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: CraigKnyn on Jul 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Sultana

Description 

The obvious crack line on the South Wall of Sultan's Tower.

P1 5.6 Start at toe of Sultan's South Wall and angle up left on easy terrain to a birch tree, then up flake, across flake and up a bit to good stance in chimney.

P2 5.8 Up chimney/with arete to a vertical squeeze section, then easier chimneying to obvious belay stance for the crux pitch.

P3 5.10+ Layback up flake to hand jams, then sustained fingers around Ear and steep, thinning crack. Pro tricky thru sustained crux. Gain nice solid ledge and belay with awesome views.

P4 5.4 Climb easier terrain to summit

Location 

Begin at the lowest toe of Sultan's South Wall, at the intersection of a gully and a big chimney.

For Descent... Down climb Conn Route 5.4 exposed to the west and chimney down to big spike with sling around it. One rope rap SW into gully with flat spot.

Protection 

Double set of cams to 2"
One 3" and 4"
Extra small cams and good set of wires

No Anchors on top. Must down climb Conn Route west then rap


Photos of Sultana Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sultan's South Wall
BETA PHOTO: Sultan's South Wall

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By CraigKnyn
From: Custer, SD
Jul 26, 2017

Did the 2nd Ascent of Sultana w Paul Piana in July 2017
Made it up to the Ear free then had to hang to get gear
I eventually placed a solid Bugaboo pin near the end of the crux
The belay ledge above the Ear takes good small gear and is a glowering spot
Piana and I have both freed the follow and figure its .10c/d

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