Sultan of Swing
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Fanny on the opening move of Sultan of Swing.
This great route starts out with a bit of a terrifying lead up to the first bolt. The first holds are confidence-inspiring, then they get much less juggy and when you're standing up 15ft, you're starting to have doubts about your decision. However, the top of the block at the base has great holds and you can stand well there, then you have massive jugs to get you to the first bolt. Follow the jugs up past the 2nd bolt and start the crux which lasts through the next bolt and up until the end. Very onsight-friendly because you can see what to do, but you could still get spit off at the end.
The second bolted route from the left on the main wall (the left overhang).
3 bolts + anchor
Here, Fanny is getting to the little ledge, with a...