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Elevation: 4,577 ft
GPS: 34.87312, -112.43732
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 91,696 total · 446/month
Shared By: BCramer on May 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

This is a steep, columnar basalt canyon cut by the Verde River. Known to climbers as Sullie's Canyon or just Sullie's, it's one of Prescott's best crack climbing destinations. It's a good area to visit when it's cold and snowy up in Prescott, but you can climb here nearly year-round, depending on which side of the canyon you're on. There's some decent bouldering to be done on the shorter side columns and the numerous blocks that have fallen into the canyon. Watch for petroglyphs.

Megs on the onsight

Despite the fact that most of the routes end at bolted rap stations, bolting face routes is not permitted. The rap stations were placed there because the rock higher up is dangerously loose and would pose a hazard to both climbers and those on the ground due to possible rockfall. Furthermore, it is felt that adding bolts to create climbs on the narrow faces between the cracks would ruin the crack climbing experience. What face climbs there are can often be top-roped from anchors after leading one of the crack routes. Local traditions prefer that this remain a no-bolting area.

Note: Changes are coming to this region. See Kevin Keith's comments below (dated 1/30/2024).

Getting There Suggest change

The canyon is located east of highway 89 north of the city of Chino Valley. It is roughly divided into two sections - Upper Sulivan's and Lower Sullivan's - each area has it's own approach.

178 Total Climbs

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Location: Sullivan's Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sullivan's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Twin Cracks
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Mrs Whittaker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Better Than Mecca
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Teddy Bear
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
S Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Distant Vision
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Easy Option
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 24
911
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Wheeler Dealer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Classic
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Disco Inferno
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Nice Hands
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Sword of Damocles
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Skyline
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Bohemian
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twin Cracks Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mrs Whittaker Lower Sullivan… > Nursery
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Better Than Mecca Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Teddy Bear Lower Sullivan… > Nursery
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
S Crack Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Distant Vision Lower Sullivan… > Concrete Jungle
 21
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Easy Option Lower Sullivan… > Main Wall
 17
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
911 Lower Sullivan… > Nursery
 24
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Wheeler Dealer Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Classic Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Disco Inferno Lower Sullivan… > Concrete Jungle
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nice Hands Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Sword of Damocles Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Skyline Lower Sullivan… > Main Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Bohemian Lower Sullivan… > Concrete Jungle
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sullivan's Canyon »

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