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SugarSmack Boulder

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Finger Tingla 
Finger Tingla Traverse 
Sugar Smack 
SugarSmack Traverse 

SugarSmack Boulder Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Sugarsmack boulder looking almost straight on at S...


Looking a lot like a sugarcube, this almost sidelaid dice boulder sits just downhill from the Canyon Trail, and is part of the Canyon Trail Boulders.

While this 15 foot high boulder contains only a few problems of (comparitively) hard ratings, the Canyon Trail is still under development, and you'll find the climbing from 5.8 to V4 on the Sugarcube. Highball climbs on the downhill side of the Sugarcube require some interesting crashpad placements, as the steep hillside could potentially yield some nasty spills.

The shady trees make this an excellent escape from the relentless sun in the summer months, though it will be cool and wet in the winter.

Watch out for poison oak. While not everywhere, it's definately around in the park.

Getting There 

Approach time: 8 minutes.

To get to this boulder, drive 3.3 miles up Adobe Canyon Road from highway 12 into the Sugarloaf Ridge State Park to a 8-12 car pullout on your left. Park.

Cross the street and head downhill on the Canyon Trail, which will have a small 3' high sign pointing you in the right direction.

Walk downhill on the windy and gently steep trail past the Canyon Trail Boulder, which will be the obvious 12 foot high on the left. Continue downhill just past the first drainage break, and continue on about 200 yards, where you will see a large mossy boulder on your left. Walk towards this boulder and past it heading downhill, and the SugarSmack Boulder will be the second boulder that you run into, looking like a cube sitting on a point. All problems are on the downhill sides, and are not visible from the approach.

Climbing Season

For the Wine Country area.

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

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On the downhill side of the Sugarsmack boulder, this problem heads up the less than vertical face moving in from the left. Move up to a shitty finger tingler in the middle of the face for the right hand, and get your left hand up to a solid ledge that's just a little further away than you want it to be. Bring your feet up and top out straight over the top on hands that are solid but reachy....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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