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Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face 
Middle Sugarloaf / West Face 
Sugarloaf, North Mtn 

Sugarloaf Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 1,659'
Location: 44.25391, -71.50496 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,238
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
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Middle and North Sugarloaf (left and right)


The mountain you catch a glimpse of while driving west on Rt 302 from Brettion Woods towards Twin Mt.

There is climbing on the Middle Peak and on the North Peak, although by far the Middle Peak has the best climbing.

Getting There 

About 5 miles west of Bretton Woods, or about 1 mile East of Twin Mt, on Rt 302 take the Zealand Road (closed in winter) 1 mile to the parking on the right. (WMNF fee $3 or annual or lifetime PASS, or park for free 0.1 mile further on Zealand Road where a logging road makes for a parking space or two.) Cross the river on the road and the trail head is on the right.

GPS Co-ordinates for this area are set for the trailhead.

Climbing Season

For the WM: Zealand Valley area.

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf:
Sea of Green    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 300'   Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Steve's Twilight   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Rock Candy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 180'   Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Sea of Green Direct Start   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf

Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Rock Climbing Photo: STARTing up P1 of Bolt-in-the-Sky

Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  New Hampshire : WM: Zealand Valley : ... : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
A nice link up. I supposed I could have called it "Bolt By the Numbers" (Joke) P1 is 5.8 and well protected with bolts. P2 is 5.7+/5.8- The first 20 ft of P2 used to be 5.7+/5.8- "PG13/R-ish" but the crack's been cleaned for a gear placement and Webster's pin replaced. P3 is hard to rate. The first few feet off the belay is easy (5.5 ?), but there's no pro until the corner. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

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