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Sugarloaf

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Dark Side, The T 
Deja View T 
Dreadnaught T 
Fistful of Stoppers T 
Heroes T 
Magic Carpet Ride T 
Return to Sender T 
Sole Fusion T 
Soul Confusion T 
Superman Flake T 
Tier Pressure T 
Valar Dohaeris T 

Sugarloaf Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.75526, -74.46058 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,295
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Forecast:
Today

78° | 62°
Tuesday

78° | 59°
Wednesday

68° | 51°
Thursday

63° | 47°
Friday

64° | 46°
Saturday

68° | 46°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This is the start of the trail for sole fusion. So...

Description 

500 ft slab, faces SE. Granite friction climbing. Consult Adirondack Rock 2nd Ed. for route descriptions.

Getting There 

About 8 miles down Cedar River Rd. See ADK guidebook for details. Approach is moderate bushwack 15-20 minutes. Lower slab is mostly vegetated and routes can start out mossy, dirty, and/or tree-studded. But persevere and you will find solid, grippy pink granite once you're above the trees. The rock quality here might just be the best of all the ADK slabs. Given the obscure nature of the base, routes can be difficult to locate; GPS might just salvage your day (coordinates in the guidebook). I have posted some photos of a few of the routes to help you locate these.

Climbing Season

For the G: Indian Lake Region area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',7],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf:
Heroes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Soul Confusion   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sole Fusion   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf

Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch three.

Valar Dohaeris 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Sugarloaf
The sister route to Soul Confusion. All belays are fixed, and the route avoids all tree islands.Start: 25' right of Soul Confusion, scramble up a fern slope to a birch tree.P1 5.9 G: Climb a slab up and left to a right-leaning crack. Follow the crack to its top, then go straight up the face. Trend left on the slab to a fixed anchor (shared with Soul Confusion). 100'P2 5.9 G: Follow Soul Confusion up clean face for 15', then straight up....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Sugarloaf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama of the slab from Cedar River Rd.
Panorama of the slab from Cedar River Rd.

Comments on Sugarloaf Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Nov 4, 2014
Went up today. It . Is amazing how much the cliff opens up with the leaves down and other brush dead. Much better views of the cliff. Can scope lines and really appreciate the loaf.

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