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Sugarloaf, West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

Sugarloaf, West Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7764, -120.3085 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,971
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005
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Beautiful panoramic shot highlights the west side ...

Description 

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.

Getting There 

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
Pony Express   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
The Podium   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches   
TM's Deviation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hyperspace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 165'   
Happy Face   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Espresso   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome flare that starts the pitch.

TM's Deviation 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
This is either a second pitch to West Chimney or Pony Express. Starts 40' directly south (downhill) of the top of p1 of Pony Express.Belay in a shady alcove, start up a slick face squeeze with a finger crack on the wall that takes good pro from #2 camalot to finger sizes. Pull out into handcrack and face on good knobs. Turns to lower angle wide fist, with good feet on the face. Then get down to business as you pull into a squeeze. A helmet will hose you here. There is a good horizon...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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