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Sugarloaf, South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bolee Gold T 
Harder Than It Used To Be S 
Hooker's Haven T 

Sugarloaf, South Face Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.7759, -120.3082 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,085
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005


66° | 45°

70° | 46°

73° | 51°

77° | 50°

79° | 52°
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The South Face of Sugarloaf is most impressive of the three climb-able sides. It faces downhill and contain predominantly hard bolted face climbs. Bolee Gold (.10c) is the easiest route on the face and offers two quality pitches of sustained smearing and crimping. Many climbs start by walking around to the right side of the face and making a 5th class move (you can protect) before moving onto easy slabs and up to the first belays.

Getting There 

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The South face is staring directly at you as you hike.

Climbing Season

For the Sugarloaf area.

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, South Face:
Bolee Gold   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, South Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, South Face
Rock Climbing Photo: S. Giffin starts into the crux of the first pitch.

Bolee Gold 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Sugarloaf, South Face
Bolee Gold begins at the end of the big ramp on the south face of Sugarloaf. From here, follow the line of bolts straight up the thin face towards the top anchors of 'Hookers Haven' (the 12a to the right). Bolee Gold doesn't use the anchors, but continues left towards the arete then up to the first set of anchors. The first pitch totals 7 bolts. The second pitch continues straight up past another 7 bolts to another hanging belay. The two pitches can be done as one for a 150' non-stop sustai...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Sugarloaf, South Face Add Comment
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By Tyler Alves
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2014
Anyone know have info on the route that goes straight up from Bolee Gold through the Hooker's Haven anchors and up to the (Bird Man?) anchors?

Meant to climb Bolee, but had an excellent adventure instead!

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