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Sugarloaf Ridge

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Asteroid Boulders, The 
Canyon Trail Boulder 
Hide Out Boulder 
Love and Hate 
Sacred Rocks, The 
Sugar and Spice 
SugarSmack Boulder 
Triangle Boulder - Sugarloaf Ridge 

Sugarloaf Ridge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.443, -122.5052 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,564
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The view of some of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park fro...

Description 

Located high above Santa Rosa lies a large park of rock known as Sugarloaf State Park. There's rock everywhere in this park. Unfourtunately, most of it is crummy volcanic rock that's too unstable for establishing routes. However, many of the tuff boulders in the park offer good bouldering on solid rock with very diverse ratings and problems.

This is one of the closest bouldering areas to The Bay Area, located just 15 minutes East of Santa Rosa, which is roughly a 50 minute drive from Central Bay locations. I drive like a bat out of hell on the 101, and can get there in 55 minutes, even being nice on Adobe Canyon Road.

There is now a fee to park at the Goodspeed trailhead.

Sugarloaf park is named so because of the packaging that sugar used to be sold in the 1900's looked a lot like the rolling hills found in the park .

Camping is allowed in the park at the designated campground which is easily found just before the day use lot. Top roping the cliff behind the parking lot is also an option.

There is lots of development potential at Sugarloaf, and it is a sight of some recent new problems. Potential first ascentionists should try to keep their routes facing away from established hiking trails so as to not detract from other peoples experiences while in the park.

Always check the Sugarloaf Ridge State Park website for the latest access information.

Getting There 

From the Bay Area, head first to Santa Rosa via the 101 North.

Once into Santa Rosa, take the exit for highway 12, and continue on 12 East 11 miles to Adobe Canyon Road, where you should go left. Sugarloaf State Park is signed at this turn.

Climbing Season

For the Wine Country area.

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',15],['V4-5',5],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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Comments on Sugarloaf Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By ScoRo
From: Portland, OR
Oct 16, 2005
Hey, looking for someone to show me around the boulders here. New to the area, found a few off Canyon Trail today while I was there, e-mail me at Millhouse51183@aol.com if you can help me out. Beautiful park.
By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Aug 29, 2010
Check out some info and pics of almost all of the bouldering in the area as well as some newly found and developed stuff here on my blog;

summitorplummet.blogspot.com/sugarloaf ridge bouldering -reborn!
By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Aug 29, 2010
a tree fell on the Asteroid Boulder taking out a few of the problems like the problems near and including the start of Milky Way Traverse :(

but the new boulders near the top of Canyon Trail (in the creek across from Pony Gate Trailhead) are brand new and make up for the other loss and there is more potential in the creek as well! come on out for some fa fun!! Aron - Brian . . ? ?
By Justin Driemeyer
From: San Carlos, California
Sep 29, 2014
Sugarloaf is NOT closed anymore - like all the other budget related state park closures of 2012, it is now reopened.
By Carl Martin
From: San Francisco
Dec 16, 2015
I didn't realize these existed. I've gone camping in the park for years. Shoot me a message if someone wants to check 'em out.

There is now a fee to park at the Goodspeed trailhead. It's either 6 or 8 dollars.