Sugarloaf, East Face Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Sugarloaf-East Face. Photo by Blitzo.
This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
In the warmer months, this side of the wall goes into the shade early and offers some shelter from the blistering sun. On the other hand, in the colder months it's popular in the morning sun but becomes bitterly cold as the sun leaves it's presence.
Tons of varied climbing from 5.7 to 5.13c both bolted, Traditionally protected, mixed and spicy. It's all here.
Head up and right from the base of the rock.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Scheister 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Lurch 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 3 pitches
Swallowtail 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Farley 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Morticia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Dominion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Monkey Flower 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Blue Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Telesis 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Taurus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Opus 7 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Taurus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CA
: ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
Taurus is an outstanding thin crack to lieback. The crux comes right off the ground, moving on good locks with smear feet. You can get a good nut, then small but solid gear. Pull the .11b crux to a stance. Then, climb the finger crack up, do some strenuous .10 lieback underclinging out left. Finish up a mantel and walk up the ramp to the chains.This route was soloed by first ascentionist Mark Hudon in the late 70s, so get after it!...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: East Face classics