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Sugar Daddy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Raleigh Collins, Robert and Hilde Fonda
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Dave Daly on May 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Start at a softball sized pocket and pull up onto good edges. Continue of positive edges and a few fractured plates, clipping four bolts along the way. Most believe the crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Clip the anchor (a pair of Mussey hooks) and lower off.


The start begins on the left side of the boulder, behind a large boulder near the dirt pullout.


4 bolts w/Mussey Hook anchor.

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By Blitzo
Aug 16, 2011

Actually the FA party was Raleigh Collins, Robert and Hilde Fonda. Late 1990s.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I felt the crux was between the first and second bolts as well. I would only give it 1 star for the poor rock quality, but I had quite a lot of fun on this route so I'm giving it 2.
By BAd
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Rock quality has improved. Overall pretty solid with fun moves. This one is definitely 10a/b--unlike the route to the right.
By Brice Davidson
Jan 29, 2017

Broke off large flake/hold near first bolt. Shouldn't change the rating. Not amazing rock quality.
By Russ Walling
Apr 14, 2017

Long reach around the first bolt... forgot the rest.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 15, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good solid fun moves. Short and sweet. What's not to like?

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