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Sugar Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: L. Dalke, 1965
Season: Gets mid day and afternoon sun
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Tony B on May 9, 2012

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  • Description 

    It looks unstable, scary, and run out, but it isn't any of those. While it is not a route to push your limits on, good protection can be had the whole way and the flake is actually pretty well-attached.

    Scramble up some slabby junk out of the ditch along the road and to a ledge below the obvious flake. Place gear under and in the flake and pull up and into it. Continue past good stances and rests, placing sometimes hard-to-see gear in the flakes every 4-5 feet (double set of Aliens if you want to sew it up), and top out of the flake on face holds. A horizontal with a thin-hands placement comes just as you run out of flake to protect. Make a few moves left and pull over a slight bulge onto a slab and continue up and left to the summit of the rock, protecting in good horizontals most of the time.

    Location 

    This climb is on the SW buttress of the Sugar Crack Wall. It climbs the obvious, right-facing flake system that starts 4 meters up and then goes slightly left to a horizontal and slab and then onto the summit.

    Protection 

    Mostly finger-sized TCUs or Aliens, so consider a double set of narrow-profile cams if you want to stitch it up - perhaps a good idea since the flake is thin and some gear might not hold a whipper. Larger cam opportunities exist too, so take a full set of cams to 3" and a few long slings.

    A gear anchor up top can be had prior to walking off to the West.


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