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Ape Walk T 
Bear Voo, The T 
Bistro, The 
Boulder Hopper T 
Clean and Jerk T 
Cool Jet T,TR 
Estrogen Patch Remover T 
Fantasia T 
Green With Envy T 
Kim T 
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 
Orbital Ridge T,TR 
Overload T 
Petit Crapon T 
Piece of Dirt S 
Remote Control T 
Skull T 
Soul of a Poet 
Southwest Friction S 
Stem Christie T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sweet Finish T 
Tanfasia T 
Underachiever  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sugar Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,744
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 11, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Sugar Crack.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is worth doing if you are in the area. It is located about 50 feet to the right of Fantasia.

P1: Follow the acute leaning dihedral for 50 feet. A #3.5 or #4 Camalot is useful if you want to sew up the exit face moves out of the top of the crack.

P2: Follow the path of least resistance to the top of the formation.

Descent: A one rope rap off of the anchors above Kim (5.6) will get you to the ground.


Pro to 2" with optional #4 Camalot.

Photos of Sugar Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil Ashton discovers his first Vedauwoo sandbag -...
Phil Ashton discovers his first Vedauwoo sandbag -...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last move out of p1 of Sugar Crack.  Sporting ...
The last move out of p1 of Sugar Crack. Sporting ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lizzy stemming up the bottom of sugar crack.
Lizzy stemming up the bottom of sugar crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sugar Crack 5.7-
BETA PHOTO: Sugar Crack 5.7-
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo on September 9, 2002 by Mark Howell.
Photo on September 9, 2002 by Mark Howell.

Comments on Sugar Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2017
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 20, 2002

This is certainly a fun pitch. There are some nice stems that make it even easier.
By Hill
May 6, 2002

It is easy to walk off to the west from the top of the first pitch if people are occuping the anchors on Kim...
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 26, 2002

This route can easily be done as a single pitch - ropedrag is not a problem. From the top of the main 40' crack, walk forward and move up easy ramp to the left. Follow easy crack to top and belay in horizontal crack.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 22, 2002

Looks vaguely like Butt Crack to me...
By Michael Kullman
Sep 2, 2003

Great route - much more interesting than Kim (which I thought was waaaaay over rated as a 'classic'). Some pretty stiff moves on this at times, I thought this was only slightly easier than Petit Crapon.
By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2004

this was my first, and to date only climb at vedauwoo. the guidebook i was going by said 5.6. looking up at this nice-looking crack i thought it was going to be a nice stroll, since i lead 5.8 pretty comfortably. about halfway up, i discovered that what they say about the steep nature of vedauwoo rating is true! here it is listed 5.7, i felt like it was 8+. i think what made it seem so hard was the total lack of face features. by the top i was literally begging for a crimp. still, i enjoyed it (i think) and when i feel like eating more humble pie, i will return to vedauwoo!
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Oct 11, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Moves out of the crack on P1 felt hard for 5.7. Gear to a #2 camalot was sufficient. P2 - one star only, next time I'll run the two together.
By Sara
From: Conifer, CO
Oct 18, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was one of my favorite climbs at Vedauwoo! We did have trouble figuring out how to get over to Kim from the top to rap down and ended up just walking off the backside.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 2, 2006

This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sugar Crack is very sugary, very sweet. Typical Vedauwoo 5.7, not entirely easy. My memory is foggy of this climb, but I think I did an alternate second pitch. My buddy called it "boulder hop", It was only about 30' tall, starts with some fun wide stemming off another boulder, after that ends there are a couple of in-your-face fisting/stacking moves, then your done. I had to hang at the stacking section, walked away with a huge gobbie, but sent it second effort. Is this the usual second pitch? If so... what the F**k?!?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2006

That was Boulder Hopper (listed on the site), a physical 5.9 on arm-bars. To maintain the 5.7 grade you continue straight back up the lower angle rock instead of doing Boulder Hopper, on the left.
By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good climb for jamming practice. Bring gear up to a #3 Camalot. Do it as one pitch. I think the 5.7- grade is fair by Vedauwoo standards.
By Steve Prager
From: Laramie, Wy
Jun 15, 2008

Fun climb, definitely worth checking out. There are big fat rap bolts at the top of the main pitch, just after you exit the wide section.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Steve, do you mean the top of the first pitch, or the top of the second pitch? If it's the first pitch, those need to be removed. There is not a single reason to rap from there, as the walk-off is short and easy, there's a horn you can sling to rap from, and the rappel eats ropes. If it's the second pitch, well, that's different.
By colin tuck
From: Moab
May 27, 2009

There are indeed bolts at the top of the first pitch. I suspect someone wanted to take newbies out toproping here, there is no other goddamn reason for them. Lame. Chop 'em.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Easy to walk off after P1. This gets 5.6 in the new guide, which applies some kind of peculiar Vedauwoo renormalization. The local grading system is so insular that it is completely disconnected from other areas. Probably HVS 5a in UK grades for the awkward-sized finish.
By Scott Coffin
From: Riverside, CA
Aug 13, 2012

I was up here today 08/13/12, and I noticed a freshly placed bolt about five feet to the right of this crack 1/4 of the way up the route. After the bolt there is no more protection, so either the bolt is for the extremely runout slab climb to the right of Sugar Crack, or it is a very unnecessary and irresponsibly placed bolt, and should be chopped.

Any info?
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

That's a protection bolt for that slab which, if memory serves, was an Orenzak route. It's been there since I first did Sugar Crack, back in 2003 or 2004.

Tangentially, I really REALLY wish people would stop throwing around bolt chopping as some sort of legitimate approach to climbing management at Vedauwoo. We've had a spectacularly amicable relationship with the Forest Service, and I'd hate to see that go away because certain people insist on a strict ground-up ethic that's historically alien to the area. Vedauwoo is predominantly a crack climbing area, true, but it was also the lab for Piana and Skinner to develop the hang-dog approach with removable protection.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Jun 3, 2017

Rap bolts are still in place at the top of the first pitch. Nice, clean rappel back to Earth from there, way more convenient than scrambling up to the Kim anchors, especially if people are climbing over there.

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