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Suesca Rock Climbing 


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Location: 5.09608, -73.79108 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,989
Administrators: TYeary Yeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: juan sebastian asencio on Oct 2, 2009  with updates from Jean Spencer and 3 more
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Second pitch of "El Vivac". 5.8

Description 

An hour north of Bogotá is located Suesca, the sandstone cliff where colombia´s rock climbing began in the country approximately 80 years ago.

Today the area boasts more than 500 routes, with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.13c And routes up to 5 pitches long(approximately 150 meters high).

Getting There 

1 hour by car from Bogota, take the north highway and head to Tunja, you have to pay 2 tolls, then you look for the bridge and the singal for Suesca on the right side, take this exit, roundabout on the bridge and in 15 minutes you are in the area, you will find a place called "ricapizza", and then the train tracks that lead to the cliff.

You can also catch a bus from the "Portal del Norte" station on Calle 180. The bus is red and the company is called Alianza, it costs 7,000 pesos ($2.5 USD), and can drop you off at the exact entrance to the crag or at "ricapizza". Busses run from Bogota every 15 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 32.8 miles from here

111 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',25],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',35],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',12],['5.8',7],['5.9',14],['5.10',32],['5.11',26],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Suesca

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Suesca:
The Black Book (Libre Negra)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   sueños de un seductor
LP (details)   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   LP
Natalio Ruiz    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Zona De Suerte
Tutti Frutti   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Zona de Alcatraz
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Suesca

Featured Route For Suesca
Rock Climbing Photo: This route climbs the obvious dihedral to the left...

Unknown 5.7 Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  South America : Colombia : ... : sueños de un seductor
Two moderate classics, including the Black Book, start about 100 meters to the left of the Madonna.The base of the wall is flat and grassy and is located maybe 20 meters from the RR tracks. The start of this route is a dihedral just left of a prominent fist crack (the start of the Black Book).P1: Climb the dihedral to a ledge (5.6) with a three bolt anchor (optonal belay here; you'll see people TR'ing the first pitch from this anchor). Move left ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Suesca Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "LP". First pitch anchor. 5.8
"LP". First pitch anchor. 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse above the roof on the second pitch of &qu...
Traverse above the roof on the second pitch of &qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: "La Placa del Pana" 5.9
"La Placa del Pana" 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: "La Placa del Pana" 5.9
"La Placa del Pana" 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: "Después de los 35". Second pitch. 5.9
"Después de los 35". Second pitch. 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second pitch of "LP". 5.8
Starting the second pitch of "LP". 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: "El Gran Techo" 5.8
"El Gran Techo" 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: dirty girl 5.9, not so much hard, so much time som...
BETA PHOTO: dirty girl 5.9, not so much hard, so much time som...
Rock Climbing Photo: Suesca highlining
Suesca highlining
Rock Climbing Photo: Suesca
Suesca
Rock Climbing Photo: the most famous route is these cliff, High Teck 5....
the most famous route is these cliff, High Teck 5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch of "La Cédula". 5.8
Second pitch of "La Cédula". 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Suesca
Suesca
Rock Climbing Photo: Street view in the heart of things, showing Rica P...
BETA PHOTO: Street view in the heart of things, showing Rica P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the right side of the heart of things. ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the right side of the heart of things. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: the light of the sunset in the wall
BETA PHOTO: the light of the sunset in the wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Back of Hostal el Descanso biz card.
BETA PHOTO: Back of Hostal el Descanso biz card.
Rock Climbing Photo: La Diagonal 5.7
La Diagonal 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: perfect crack
perfect crack
Rock Climbing Photo: topping out
topping out
Rock Climbing Photo: Suesca is awesome.
Suesca is awesome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Suesca
Suesca
Rock Climbing Photo: "Después de los 35". Second pitch. 5.9
"Después de los 35". Second pitch. 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Suesca highlining
Suesca highlining

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Suesca Add Comment
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By Josh Kornish
From: tufaclimbing.com
Dec 29, 2013
If anyone has any questions about Suesca feel free to message me. I've spent about two months here climbing.

Suesca is an incredible area and most definitely worth a visit!
By moredaysoff
Jun 27, 2014
Here is a full information post about the logistics of Suesca. Even a photo of a local rock guide!

moredaysoff.com/2014/06/suesca...
By Ryan Marsters
Jan 7, 2016
Fun place - we stayed several nights at Nomada Hostel (~$10 US/night) and it's a 5 min walk from there. The town is dead during the week. Guides are about $30 US each for a half day if you want to get a feel for the area. The local climbers are also pretty friendly and open to climbing, making it fairly easy to find a climbing partner if you hang around the hostels.

We did about 15 or so routes in the 5.8-5.11- range in multiple areas and the rock/climbing seemed similar to Tensleep - fairly positive pocket holds. A lot of roofs and powerful, bouldery moves off of generally decent hands and thoughtful feet/body positioning.
By DrApnea
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jul 4, 2016
Great climbing in Suesca. Easy access from Bogota via the bus and the climbing is easy to access thanks to the train tracks. Plenty of options for lodging, tent, hostel, or you can even splurge to live like a king if you look on airbnb.

TR listed on our blog.
guyettes.blogspot.com/2016/04/...

One of the local climbers, Sebas, provided great hospitality and showed us around. I would climb here again. Sebas said he would update this page with some of the routes, so hopefully he is able to because there is so much more climbing here than what it looks like on MP.
By Gunkswest
Nov 27, 2016
As of 12-2016, the route and area organization here on Mountain Project for Suesca is pretty messed up. As an example, coming down the railroad tracks from town you'll reach:
El Riel
La Abeja
La Virgen
Zona de Alcatraz
LP
Just those sections (and there are lots of others between La Virgen and Zona Alcatraz) are not currently in the correct geographical order here on MP.

Suesca is a fantastic place filled with lots of great traditional (and historic) lines. The Black Book (Libre Negra) was apparently the first rock climb in Colombia, put up by a Swiss guide named Kraus in 1938. LP, at the far end of the cliff, is a Gunks-like line that wanders through intimidating terrain at a moderate grade.

Many of the bolted routes were put up early in the sport climbing game and hence, are at times seemed to us to have been stupidly bolted. It appeared to us that some of the developers were looking for difficulty and decided to ignore big holds and obvious lines, making some of the bolts purposely hard to clip.

As of 12-2016, there were several discussions on MP about Suesca (use the search function to find them).

There are several places to stay right in the heart of things (that is near the climbing shop and Rica Pizza). The climbing shop has a hostal and there's another a bit further down the railroad tracks, roughly across from the Suesca train station (a two-story green structure with "Suesca" on the side; it's only visible while walking the train tracks).

If you're a couple, looking for something other than camping or a dorm room, consider Hostal el Descanso. It's run by a charming older lady and is about 150 feet to the right of the climbing shop. We got a large room with cooking facility and great hot water for less than 50,000COP/night. I'm confident those staying longer than a week could negotiate a cheaper per night price. I've posted the business card for the hostal in the general photos section for Suesca so you can make contact ahead of time if you wish (the owner doesn't speak English).

If you look on Airbnb, booking.com and other internet sites, you'll find lots of other places to stay. Be aware that some, despite what their pictures may appear to show, are on the opposite side of the river from the cliff (this is a problem). At least one place (where we stayed the first night we arrived in town) is shown on the mapping features of these websites to be in the heart of things (right by the climbing shop), when in fact it was a 20 minute walk away (a bit of bait and switch).

Groceries may be purchased in the little enclave about 300 yards down the road/tracks heading away from the actual town of Suesca. There are three bakeries, a grocery store and a couple small, basic eateries (empanadas, eggs, etc.). The eateries were open until at least 9pm; the grocery store seemed to close at 8pm. If you need an ATM, you'll have to go into downtown Suesca (about a 20 minute walk from the climbing shop).

There are two restaurants right in the heart of things (by the climbing shop) - Rica Pizza and Restaurant Dona Maria. Both serve large portions and compared to the rest of rural Colombia, are overpriced for what you get (20,000+COP/person plus drinks). Weirdly, only one was open on any given night during our visit to Suesca in 12-2016.

The local guides were very friendly and glad to help orientate us to the area.

Getting to Suesca can easily be done by bus. From downtown Bogota, get to Portal Norte (a bus terminal on the north side of the city). Try to avoid Portal Norte during rush hour (the crowding makes the NYC subway seem tame). Grab a bus labeled "Suesca" and in about 1.5 hours, you can be dropped off right in front of the climbing shop (note that several minutes before the climbing shop, you'll see a large Madonna in a cage on the right side of the road - this is your cue that it's about time to get off the bus). On the return to Bogota, stand in front of the climbing shop and take a red bus back to Portal Norte. From Portal Norte, you can catch a series of buses and end up right at El Dorado Airport.

In summary, Suesca is a place we would go back to and stay a month or more. If you have the chance, go.
By robert melvin
Jan 3, 2017
New to the area need a guide! Here ya go!

I've been traveling through Columbia for the past month with two more to go just to climb. I got to suesca an didn't actually realize just how much climbing is here. It's unreal massive an super sandbagged ha. So I was staying at the el nómada hostel an went in to restaurant. So happen to meet Daniel.I ordered a beer an he asked me if I'm climbing.im yea but I don't have a partner today. So he runs over an grabs his guide book which they don't sell ha. An tells me he's been climbing here for over 17 years. It didn't take long to see that Danny really knew the area. An I was like prefect want to go climb he was so Syked first day we went an did lp biggest multi pitch in suesca. Even had some lunch after the second pitch.Showed me the pro the route the area.as long with every zone on the wall. An taught me a lot about the culture an people of the area. If your looking for the best guide in the area he's the Man. Shouldnt have a hard time finding him tall guy long curly hair an always laughing. He's his information though: Daniel Michaan, michaan78@yahoo.com ,

(+57) 3118649239
By Ninoska Gutierrez
From: Suesca
Feb 17, 2017
We have a Spanish school in the entrance of the Rocks. Intensive courses in the morning from Monday to Friday, so people can study Spanish in the morning and climb in the afternoon and weekends,we offer full immersion with the school and our guest house, check our website and don't hesitate to ask any question you have about Suesca, the rocks, guides, or lodging in the guest house.
greenlanguagescolombia.com


Rock Climbing Photo: Green Languages
Green Languages
By Sebastian mejia
From: Suesca
5 days ago
you.
yes, you!
Do you need a partner to climb in Suesca?
maybe a guide to show you around?
perhaps an instructor to help learn how to lead multipitch trad climbs like a boss??
or do you just need to get some beta (tricks, weather, food, gear, planning, etc)?

Then please don´t hesitate to call or write, i will be happy to help.
i am a guide and instructor with 17+ years climbing and living here.
Sebastian mejia 3107863024 mandrill24@gmail.com
Rock Climbing Photo: The cliff!
The cliff!

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