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Pilier Dorada S 
Sueño de Venus S 

Sueño de Venus 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Eric Bluemn on May 5, 2017

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Description 

Find the left most line of bolts on the main wall at El Polvorin. The start is tricky; I found that climbing left and traversing right into the climb was the most logical. From there, follow bolts to a ledge with a rappel station. A leftward bolt line splits off (Alerta roja, 6b+); Sueño takes the line straight up, then trends left on pockets, tufa, and cracks (bolt line stays left of the small cave below the corner of Pilier Dorada). This is a long and sustained pitch, and feels slightly more challenging than other climbs of the grade in El Chorro.

Location 

The left most line of bolts on the main wall at El Polvorin.

Protection 

Bolts, with a rap station at the top.


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