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Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller and Rich Kast, 1975
Page Views: 1,120
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Climb the large, blocky left-facing corner with a smooth face to its left (No Picnic), to the top to reach a stance that is a bit below and slightly right of an obvious right-facing corner. Go past the corner, then climb straight up the face over a bulge (crux) to a ledge. Diagonal up and left to a small ledge and a pine tree with a fixed anchor.

The crux is strenuous in nature, but it is very brief and the protection is decent. If someone is looking for a route for a first 5.8 lead, this would be a reasonable choice.


Left of the Dirty Gerdie block, at the top of the hill.


Protection is adequate.

Comments on Suderiferous: 5.8 variation Add Comment
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 2, 2011

Did this last Sunday. It was actually a very fun climb. It's soft for an 8, but, the gear can be a little tricky as some of the rock is not great. That said, it's mellow and happy with a brief crux.
By Adam Marcus
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 2, 2014

I did this route by accident last Saturday, meaning to climb the regular 5.2 route. Whoops! I missed the belay station and just kept going straight up, then trending left at the Norton Smithe pin mentioned in the Grey Dick route description. The 5.8 moves felt a lot easier than many 5.6 and 5.7 routes I climbed that weekend, but I ran it out rather than stop to place pro.

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