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Sudden Impact 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 2,227
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Tight hands forever. Photo credit Erin DeMarco.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This climb is a great thin-hands crack in a corner with occasional rests. The roof will probably be the crux for most people. The crack starts out a tad smaller (green Camalots) and then becomes great thin-hands climbing with nice holds on the face for rests. The roof packs a bit of a punch but perfect hand jamming awaits above, taking you to the anchors. Definitely recommended.


Sudden Impact is the thin-hands crack in a right-facing corner just left of Torque Wrench and Death of a Cowboy. There's a prominent roof about 2/3 of the way up the climb and some lower angle, soft rock at the bottom.


2 or 3 green Camalots, a bunch (8?) of reds and a few gold Camalots for good measure. Also, maybe one blue Camalot. I also believe that I used a smaller piece to protect the lower section although I may have backcleaned the piece to save on rope drag.

Photos of Sudden Impact Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sudden impact from the base
BETA PHOTO: Sudden impact from the base

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By slim
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

kind of like a thin hands mirror image of meathooks. tight hands in a corner forever with a roof near the top. this is an excellent route.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 13, 2009

new version of the guidebook says 180', which I think is more accurate. Wasn't much left of a 60m on the ground.

Used yellow alien/tcus (2) to protect the start, but backcleaning is a good idea for drag purposes.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Nov 3, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Long, sweet route! Take 4, or so, .75 camalots, or so. There's a section of nothing but in the bottom of the main corner right after a little wide pod. Then it's 1s until all the way til after the roof (which is freakin hard!).
By monkeyvanya
From: Denver, CO
Nov 13, 2014

I used 3#0.75, ~7#1, ~5#2, #3(optional) - bd c4 sizes
After cleaning, 80m rope lowered me to a big ledge ~30ft above the base.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This thing is damn near a 60m ropelength of mostly .75 - 1. Black metolius is a really good size to have, as .75s will be tippy for a while before 1s fit. I didn't have a decent hand jam on this until at least 30m up. Nice and sustained with some sneaky rests! One of the better pitches I've climbed at the creek after the initial ledge scramble.
By armchairalpinist
From: Issaquah, WA
Nov 12, 2016

wow! this is long. black metolious for the win! I only had 2 but would have appreciated a few more. I brought a BD #4 protected the short section of #4 camalot! I also brought 2 BD #3s, placed both but only needed one. Anchor is a 3/8" SMC spinner, drilled angle and a beefy ASCA bolt, all equipped with chain and rap rings!

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